The Basque Country straddles the border of Spain and France, on the Bay of Biscay. A unique pocket of the world, the autonomous region is made up of seven provinces, split between the two countries. Four of the provinces are in northern Spain, and the other three are in southwest France, just over the border. The French Basque Country, also referred to as Iparralde, is like the cool little surfer sister to the chic and elegant French Riviera.
A handful of towns line the French Basque coast, like Saint-Jean-de-Luz,
known for its bustling market scene, and Biarritz, well-known for its glamorous history as a summer spot for the royal families. In between those two cities, however, is a hidden gem called Guéthary. It's small, so small, in fact, it's considered a commune, not a town, and it is a lovely place to sit by the sea for food, drinks, a surf, or just enjoying the views.
Flip flops and beachwear aren't out of place, as the town is laid back and casual. The local SNCF train has a stop in town, so that's the easiest way to get there if you are hopping between the coastal towns. Driving can give you more accessibility, but parking can be tough sometimes, as the center of town is small and many bars and restaurants are down on the beach. If you're up to it, you can walk from Saint-Jean-de-Luz's Lafitenia Beach to the restaurant Chez Nadyne, pictured above, as it only takes around 20 minutes on foot. From the foodie paradise with epic cheesecake and Michelin stars, San Sebastian, it's a 30-minute drive, or from Biarritz, where you'll find the closest international airport, it's about 20 minutes.
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Hop Between Beachside Bars And Restaurants
Regardless of how you arrive in Guéthary, one thing you'll definitely want to do is spend time at one of the many beachside bars. Some are close enough to the water that you can dip your toes in the sand, and others are higher up with spectacular views of the coast.
On the edge of town, Hétéroclito is a great spot for lunch, overlooking the beach (pictured above). Open from March to November, the star of the show here is seafood. With seaside shack vibes, fishing nets, shells, and what looks like the skeleton of a whale decorate the indoor space. The outdoor terrace has a stunning ocean view, and the blackboard highlights the fresh catch of the day.
If you walk down the path from Hétéroclito to the beach, you'll find yourself at Le Pasaia Guéthary. More of a beach bar, you can order at the counter and then pull up a stool for a front row view of the beach. Sunset is a popular time to have drinks and listen to music. Further down the coast, Chez Nadyne is a hip spot that feels like someone's beach bungalow. A simple spot with a grassy terrace overlooking the beach, it's the perfect place for coffee after a morning surf, lunch, or sunset apero with friends. There's even a parking lot right behind it, making it super easy to visit. If you're up for a little adventure with the kiddos, there's also a mini zipline and ropes park that you pass on the way to the parking lot.
Where To Wander, Shop, And Sleep In Guéthary
One of the best shops in Guéthary is Parlementia. Part café, part shop, it has a little terrace where you sit and have coffee with a view of the ocean. Inside, you can browse clothes from their own namesake brand as well as art, records, surfboards, and cool coffee table books that cover everything from art to travel to yoga. Another ocean-inspired store is Hoalen. A community of surfers, ocean lovers, and those who live from the sea, it's a conscious network with quality goods.
At Accoceberry, you'll find some Basque regional specialties that make great gifts or souvenirs. One thing to look out for is Espelette pepper, a mild chili which is used in most dishes in the French Basque Country. Similar to paprika, it adds a little flavor but not too much heat. For boho chic women's clothing, head to Ema Tesse, where surfer owner Pamela Brabant designs everything you could need for a stylish French beach trip.
In the center of town, Hotel Le Madrid is a quaint boutique hotel with traditional Basque architecture. You'll recognize that style all up and down the coast, with timbered houses in a very specific palette of blue, red, and green. Opposite the hotel is Le Bar Basque, which has an ample terrace out front and features art by local artists inside. For an elevated experience, book a room at the Briketenia, a converted family home which is now a boutique hotel with Michelin-starred dining.
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