BEIRUT (AP) — For more than a century, the Tabbara family has been serving up falafel to Beirut’s residents.
Their business, which predates Lebanon’s founding, has survived two world wars and a series of local conflicts in the small Mediterranean nation.
Now, a fourth generation is getting ready to take over the modest shop, where customers can get $3 sandwiches of small, doughnut-shaped patties of deep-fried ground fava beans wrapped in flat Lebanese
bread with pickled cucumber, tomatoes, parsley, thick tahini sauce and homemade dark red-hot pepper paste for the spice lovers.
“I have clients spread all over the world,” 82-year-old Mohammed Tabbara said as a European customer waited for a sandwich in Beirut’s busy Hamra district that's packed with cafes, clothing shops and two major universities.
“They all come to eat falafel because they know the flavor and the taste,” Tabbara added.
He is passing down the culinary craft to his 40-year-old son, Ziad Tabbara, a former accountant who has spent the last six years working full time with his dad.
“This is a flavor that made history and heritage passed down through generations,” said Ziad Tabbara, who as a child helped his father in the shop during summer vacations.
Ziad has no children of his own to pass on the tradition to — a sore point with his father who wants to see him married with children.
Beirut was still part of the Ottoman Empire when Ziad's great-grandfather Kamel Tabbara opened the family’s first falafel shop in the city’s central Bab Idriss district in 1914. It would be six years before the state of Greater Lebanon was established after World War I.
Kamel passed the business to his son Ahmad. Since 1950, the business has been mostly run by Kamel’s grandson Mohammed. It was around that time that the family moved its business from central Beirut. The current shop in a narrow street has been in place since 1979.
“I have been through 40 wars,” Mohammed Tabbara said, referring to two civil wars, Israel's 1982 invasion of Lebanon, multiple Israel-Hezbollah wars, and several conflicts involving Palestinian groups and the Syrian army.
Mohammed Tabbara, who began working with his dad at the shop when he was just 6 years old, still mans the counter, taking orders from clients and assembling sandwiches. Always smiling, Mohammed knows many customers by name. Some have been getting falafel there for decades.
Beirut is known throughout the Middle East for its cuisine, from fine restaurants to street food.
Small falafel spots can be found throughout Lebanon. A sandwich is a filling, affordable meal for people in a nation that's been experiencing a historic economic meltdown since 2019, rooted in decades of corruption and mismanagement.
Mohammed Tabbara's shop is decorated with two photos of him: A black-and-white one taken in 1966 and another taken two years ago in which he wears his trademark skull cap.
He takes pride in the shop's cleanliness. They change the cooking oil every day and wash the vegetables with vinegar and salt.
Jean Matta, 60, works in the neighborhood and has been eating falafel at Tabbara since 1992. “It’s crunchy, tasty and clean,” Matta said.
Ziad has learned his father's special secret recipe for falafel, which is made of Australian fava beans, soaked in water the night before, then ground before being mixed with salt and an array of spices, including coriander. Mohammed said chickpeas, used in many falafel recipes, are heavier and take more time to digest than fava beans alone. He also said he was the first in Lebanon to introduce a falafel patty covered with sesame seeds and with a hole in the middle, making it well-cooked inside and crunchy on the outside.
“The sandwich you take from here is light and 100% healthy,” Mohammed said as he wrapped a sandwich while his son dropped falafel patties into a giant frying pot.
“God willing, I will continue to offer the same flavor,” Ziad said.
