Deep-fry (zhà), a well-known technique where the food is fried in a pool of hot oil, which both cooks it and creates a crispy exterior, is used throughout the “Frying” chapter in my cookbook “The Chinese Way.”
When deep-frying, I use a thermometer, aiming for 350°F to 375°F. Another way to gauge the temperature is to stick a wooden chopstick in the oil, and if tiny bubbles float rapidly up around it the heat is adequate.
Deep-frying often involves a
double-fry technique. That method has been traditionally used in Shanghai for shrimp and fish steaks, and it works especially well for chicken. An initial fry at a low temperature seals in the juices and sets the exterior, creating a light coating. Then a second fry at a higher temperature cooks the chicken through and amps up the crispiness.
The coating here is seasoned with cumin and gets the texture from crushed sesame seeds.
Serves 4
2 scallions, roughly chopped
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
2 teaspoons grated ginger
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 ½ to 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
¼ cup white sesame seeds
2 tablespoons sugar
¾ cup potato starch
1 teaspoon ground cumin
CUMIN SALT:
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
LEMON MAYONNAISE:
¼ cup Kewpie mayonnaise
Juice of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, minced
Neutral oil, for frying
Marinate the chicken: Cut the chicken into 1½ to 2-inch chunks. Combine the scallions, garlic, ginger, salt, white pepper, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil and soy sauce in a medium bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours or overnight.
An hour before cooking, remove the chicken from the fridge and bring to room temperature.
Meanwhile, make the breading: Crush the sesame seeds with the sugar with a mortar and pestle, or pulse in a food processor, until a coarse powder forms. Mix the sesame seed mixture with the potato starch and cumin in a shallow bowl. Set aside.
Make the cumin salt: Stir together and set aside.
Make the lemon mayo, if using: Combine the mayo, lemon juice and garlic in a small bowl. Refrigerate until you’re ready to serve.
Fry the chicken: Heat 2 inches neutral oil to 335°F in a large, deep, heavy pot. Set a wire cooling rack inside a baking sheet, and line a large plate with a few layers of paper towels. Prepare another one for after frying.
Working in batches, remove chicken from marinade, letting any liquid drip off each piece, and place the chicken in breading mix. Flip to coat thoroughly in the breading, then set on first prepared wire rack.
When oil reaches 335°F, gently coat the chicken with more breading mixture, then carefully slip it into the hot oil. Fry for 90 seconds or until the chicken is pale golden and slightly puffy, then transfer to the second wire rack using a slotted spoon.
Repeat the breading and frying process with the remaining chicken, allowing the oil to reach 335°F between batches and using a slotted spoon to remove any loose breading from the oil.
Once the initial frying is complete, increase the oil temperature to 350°F.
Fry each batch again for 3 to 5 minutes, gently turning occasionally, until the chicken is evenly golden brown and has an internal temperature of at least 165°F. Place the fried chicken on the paper towel-lined plate to drain, then sprinkle with the cumin salt.
Serve with the lemon mayonnaise if desired.
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Betty Liu is a cookbook author, photographer and doctor completing her surgical residency. An avid home cook who writes about Chinese home cooking on her award-winning blog, she published her debut book, “My Shanghai,” in 2021, and it was named one of the best cookbooks of the year.
Excerpted from “The Chinese Way” by Betty Liu. Copyright (copyright) 2024 by Betty Liu. Used with permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Company. New York, NY. All rights reserved.
https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/betty-liu/the-chinese-way/9780316485432/
