PARIS (AP) — Hundreds of thousands of people packed Paris’ iconic Champs-Élysées avenue for Pope Leo XIV’s big outdoor Mass on Saturday, a sign of the Catholic Church’s enduring appeal in the once staunchly Catholic but officially secular country.
The American pope greeted the throngs from his popemobile during a 2-kilometer (1.2-mile) parade along the grand boulevard leading to the Place de la Concorde for Mass, essentially the heart of Paris and a symbol
of the secular French republic.
The massive turnout, more than 600,000 people registered to attend Mass, testified to the church’s enduring influence in France, despite the sharp decline in churchgoers in recent decades amid secularizing trends that have emptied churches around Europe.
Although a massive security blanket shut down central Paris to road traffic Saturday, the party-like atmosphere drew people of multiple faiths and no faith at all to see the American pope.
“The message of Pope Leo goes well beyond Catholic people; he speaks about social justice, for example,” said Leontine Joseph, 42, a fervent Catholic who came to Mass with two friends of Moroccan origin who grew up in Muslim culture.
Leo has sought to encourage French Catholics to persevere in their faith “even amid the thorns” of a secular world during his four-day visit. It began on Friday with his arrival and prayer at the newly restored Notre Dame cathedral, the first by a pope since the devastating 2019 fire, and continues with his prayer at the Catholic shrine at Lourdes.
During a visit to the Catholic Institute of Paris on Saturday morning, the American pope said he was surprised by the numbers of new converts registered in recent years and grateful for what he said was God’s “unfathomable work” to counter all statistical and sociological analysis.
“We must recognize, welcome and protect the small flame that the Holy Spirit has kindled in the darkness of the night, the tiny seed that strives to grow even amid the thorns,” he said.
The number of adult baptisms in France each year has tripled since 2016, hitting 13,000 this year. But statistics and experts caution that the slight uptick, which has been recorded also in secular Spain, doesn’t counteract the overall generational trend of children of practicing French Catholics no longer going to Mass or baptizing their babies.
In 1980, there were 513,000 baptisms in France; in 2024, a total of 186,000.
With hours to go before the Mass, thousands of pilgrims flocked to Concorde to secure a place under cloudy skies. Many didn't identify as Catholics, but came out of interest in the pope's message.
“People are seeing a lot of really terrible images. This kind of event reminds people of what is really important in life," said Thierry Chen, a 40-year-old Parisian start-up entrepreneur who is not Catholic. "You see a lot of different people here, so it’s not just about one race, religion or nation, but about a common belief in humankind.”
Sylvane Le Goff, 68, who lives in the Paris region, came with her 10- and 12-year-old grandchildren to “give them unforgettable memories.” Le Goff, who was raised Catholic but is not practicing, said she wanted to open her grandchildren’s minds.
"It’s not only about seeing the pope but it also is about his message of peace and unity, values I’d like to share with them,” she said.
Leo has clearly been impressed by the numbers and enthusiasm of the French, especially at a Friday night vigil that kept the 71-year-old pope out until nearly 11 p.m. after a packed first day.
Some 80,000 young people filled the national stadium north of the French capital for an extravaganza of fireworks and a theatrical retelling of French Catholic history.
“Thank you for your courage! Thank you for your presence,” Leo told the crowd, speaking off the cuff in French. “Thank you for your faith. You are the saints of France!” he said to raucous cheers.
The choice of Place de la Concorde for Saturday's Mass was significant.
Organizers said they chose it because it was the only area in central Paris that could accommodate the hundreds of thousands of people expected to attend. Last week, organizers extended the crowd site because they predicted more.
But the choice of the venue has been criticized by staunch supporters of secularism who argue that the site represents the Republic, and that other places such as the Invalides, a complex of buildings where Pope Benedict XVI celebrated Mass in front of 240,000 people in 2008, would have been more appropriate.
France is a traditionally Catholic country, but adheres to a strict form of secularism in public life based on a 1905 law separating church and state.
The Place de la Concorde was designed at the end of the 18th century and was among the main sites of execution during the French Revolution. Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were guillotined there. For many French people, the square embodies the Republic: French presidents traditionally celebrate Bastille Day there.
The Champs-Élysées has long served as a gathering place for large public celebrations, particularly after major sporting events. In 1998, an estimated 1.5 million people celebrated on the famed avenue after France’s football team won the World Cup.
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