Winter is often labelled the ‘ideal’ time to use retinol, thanks to reduced sun exposure and fewer hours spent outdoors. But colder months also bring dry air, compromised skin barriers and heightened sensitivity
– making retinol a double-edged sword if used incorrectly.
Dermatologists agree that winter can be an excellent time to use retinol, but only when the approach is tailored to your skin’s condition rather than the calendar. The real question isn’t whether retinol works in winter. It’s whether your skin is ready for it.
When Increasing Retinol Makes Sense
According to Dr Ameesha Mahajan, Cosmetic Dermatologist & Founder, Eden Skin Clinic, Amritsar, winter can be a safe window to level up retinol use – but only for experienced users. “Retinol is powerful. It boosts collagen, fades pigmentation, smooths texture – but it also disrupts the skin barrier if used incorrectly, especially in cold, dry weather,” she explains.
If your skin is already well-adjusted, meaning no redness, flaking or sensitivity, this is when dermatologists may recommend increasing frequency or strength. Dr. Rupika Singh, MBBS, MD, Dermatologist and Founder, Akiya Aesthetics, Delhi, echoes this perspective, noting that lower UV exposure reduces the risk of retinol-related photosensitivity. For stable skin, this could mean moving from 2–3 nights a week to 4–5 nights, or stepping up from a mild percentage to a stronger formulation.
The logic is simple: less sun exposure combined with consistent moisturisation allows retinol to work on collagen repair and pigmentation with fewer setbacks.
Why Many Dermatologists Recommend Holding Back
That said, not all skin thrives under increased retinol in winter. Dry air pulls moisture from the skin, and retinol’s accelerated cell turnover can make matters worse. Dr Mahajan advises reducing use if you notice burning, peeling around the mouth or nose, or persistent tightness.
Dr Singh adds that this is where many users go wrong. Strong retinol combined with low humidity can compromise the barrier quickly. Instead of pushing through irritation, dermatologists recommend maintaining your current strength or cutting back to alternate nights while focusing on barrier repair with ceramide-rich moisturisers and hydrating formulas.
The takeaway: irritation is not a sign of progress. It’s a sign to slow down.
When Pausing Retinol Is The Smartest Move
There are times when stopping retinol altogether is the healthiest choice. Both dermatologists agree that active barrier damage should never be ignored. Dr Mahajan points out that conditions like eczema, dermatitis, or excessive exfoliation alongside retinol warrant a break.
Dr Singh reinforces that barrier health must always come first. Even a short pause of one to two weeks can help reset the skin and make future retinol use more effective. Retinol performs best on resilient skin, not inflamed or compromised skin.
Dermatologist-Approved Winter Retinol Rules
Across both experts, a few winter-specific guidelines remained consistent:
- Use the sandwich method: moisturiser, then retinol, moisturiser
- Choose formulations with ceramides, squalane or hyaluronic acid
- Avoid layering retinol with AHAs or BHAs during peak winter
- Apply SPF daily, even on cloudy or low-sun days
These steps help maintain results without sacrificing comfort.
Winter doesn’t demand more retinol. It demands smarter retinol. If your skin is calm and resilient, you can consider increasing carefully. If it feels tight or irritated, scaling back is wiser. And if your barrier is compromised, pausing isn’t a failure – it’s maintenance. Let your skin’s behaviour guide your routine, not seasonal skincare myths.
