Every winter, the internet turns into a skincare laboratory – layering, sealing, hydrating, and masking in the pursuit of that elusive cold-weather glow. Social media’s favourite rituals have returned,
too: slugging, skin flooding, and lip masking. While the idea of moisture-rich skin has universal appeal, dermatologists insist the skin barrier is not influenced by virality but by biology. And when the weather changes, so should your routine.
In the era of trending techniques and overnight transformations, we asked three experts to break down what’s truly derm-safe this season.
Slugging: A Barrier Hero Or A Breakout Trigger?
“Slugging reduces transepidermal water loss by creating an occlusive barrier,” explains Dr Gagan Raina, Cosmetologist and Aesthetic Medicine Specialist, Arisia Skin Clinic, Mumbai, adding that it can be extremely beneficial for xerosis, atopic skin, or patients with a compromised barrier.
But this thick occlusive step is not for everyone. Dr Akanksha Sanghvi, Dermatologist, Founder, Oprava Aesthetics, Mumbai warns, “In oily, acne-prone or fungal-acne susceptible individuals, slugging can trap bacteria and debris, encouraging breakouts or folliculitis.” She notes that heavy occlusives can create a low-oxygen environment that promotes Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, worsening comedones and closed whiteheads.
Indian skin adds another layer of complexity. “Our skin naturally produces more sebum, and much of India stays humid even in winter,” says Dr Geeta Mehra Fazalbhoy, Founder, Skin & You Clinic, Mumbai, cautioning that slugging can easily backfire and clog pores.
For extremely dry or retinoid-treated skin, slugging can still be a rescue ritual – used sparingly, preferably at night, and paired with ceramide-rich moisturisers or gentle barrier creams. All experts emphasise that daily slugging is rarely necessary in Indian winters.
Skin Flooding: Gentle Hydration Or Reverse Dehydration?
Unlike slugging, flooding relies on humectants. “Layering hydrating serums and essences on damp skin is rooted in dermatologic science,” says Dr Sanghvi, pointing to glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol as ingredients that improve elasticity and reduce dehydration lines.
But this ritual requires proper sealing. Dr Raina stresses, “Hydration helps the barrier, but excessive layering -especially fragranced or multi-active formulas – can irritate compromised skin.”
Done incorrectly, skin flooding can create the opposite effect. “If hydration isn’t sealed with a moisturiser, water evaporates, leaving the barrier weaker than before,” warns Dr Sanghvi.
For most Indian skin types, experts agree that one humectant paired with a single, non-comedogenic moisturiser is sufficient – no need for seven-step stacks or aggressive layering. For rosacea, irritant dermatitis or oily skin, minimalism works better than maximalist trends.
Lip Masking: The One Trend Dermatologists Approve
Among all three rituals, lip masking earns the most unanimous approval. “Lips lack oil glands and require occlusives nightly in winter,” says Dr Sanghvi. Petrolatum, lanolin, natural butters, beeswax, and ceramides all get the green light.
Dr Raina adds that tingling is not a sign of efficacy: “Ingredients like menthol or camphor may give temporary relief but often worsen cheilitis.” The rule is simple – nourish, don’t stimulate. And skip fragranced or plumping ingredients if your lips are sensitive, inflamed, or prone to dermatitis.
Winter skincare trends aren’t inherently bad. They’re simply not universal. Some skin types thrive with occlusion, while others rebel with congestion and inflammation. What works in cold European winters may not translate to India’s varied climate or naturally sebum-rich skin. The key is strategic personalisation: analysing your skin type, climate, and barrier health rather than following trends blindly. Viral doesn’t always mean safe – and the best winter skincare is the one built around science, not scrolls.
