Morena, Madhya Pradesh (316 km south of Delhi): Once the hub of dacoits, Morena district’s countryside now offers a unique perspective on temple development in north-central India. Atop a hill in Mitaoli village is a 10th–11th century CE Chaunsath Yogini Temple built in a circular design which may have served as the prototype for India’s old Parliament building. Close by is Padhawali, home to an equally ancient shrine which has spectacular sculpted iconography on its inner walls and ceiling. Behind a hill lies the vast site of Bateshwar, where excavations have unearthed over a hundred shrines. Nearby villages, such as
The Chaunsath Yogini Temple at Mitaoli in Morena district
Closer to Gwalior and hidden away in low hills and vegetation is the temple complex of Naresar, home to numerous shrines that are nearly a thousand years old. Closer to Morena town lies the lofty Kakanmath Temple, over 150 feet in height. And once you have had your fill of heritage shrines, take a river safari on the Chambal to glimpse crocodiles lazing in the sun. And round it off with a flavour of local cuisine while relaxing at a rural homestay.
The lofty Kakanmath Shiva Temple in rural Morena
Bundi, Rajasthan (477 km south of Delhi): Tucked away in a land of elaborate forts and stunning palaces lies tiny Bundi. The majestic Taragarh is more fort-palace than mere fortress, and it spreads out over the hills here, almost as if it had grown organically. Begun at the fag end of the 13th century and added to over the next two hundred years, it is the repository of some of India’s finest traditional wall paintings. While inside the Bada Mahal and Chitrashala, don’t forget to look up, as even the ceilings are painted.
The vast Taragarh Fort-Palace complex
A painting within the Chitrashala of Bundi's Taragarh Fort
Bundi’s other significant feature comprises a wealth of structures dedicated to water conservation – stepwells and stepped tanks. While the Raniji ki Baoli is striking in its embellishment, the Nagar-Sagar pair of stepwells, the Nawal Sagar and Phool Sagar lakes, the Dabhai Kund and others make it a special place for conservationists. Bundi’s best-kept secret, however, lies outside the town. This comes in the form of painted rock shelters dating back to a prehistoric era. Ask your hotel to organise a tour of the sites to appreciate man’s early creativity.
Shivpuri, Madhya Pradesh (467 km south of Delhi): Base yourself at the lakeside Tourist Village here to explore the region at ease. The forests around merge into the balmy Madhav National Park, home to leopards, wolves, and several varieties of deer. Watch out for migratory birds along the Sakhya Sagar Lake. On a hill within the park is the George Castle, built in 1911 for a British royal who eventually did not turn up.
George Castle inside Shivpuri's Madhav National Park
To see an older fortification and one with greater historic significance, drive out to explore Narwar Fort, a vast bastion that was built up from the 10th century onwards and remained a key fortress to control the region till the early 19th century. To the east is
Bikaner, Rajasthan (461 km west of Delhi): Stay in a palace-turned-hotel in charming Bikaner, which has all the magic of a desert town without the noise of Jodhpur or the crowds that throng Jaisalmer. Kick off your exploration at
Inside a palace of Bikaner's Junagarh Fort
Within the city, enjoy the paintings and designs of the Bhanda Shah Jain Temple and the city’s historic merchant mansions, such as the Rampuria Havelis. More murals can be seen on the cenotaphs of Bikaner’s rulers, at
(The author is a heritage explorer with a penchant for seeking obscure sites. A brand consultant by profession, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. Views expressed in the above piece are personal and solely those of the author. They do not necessarily reflect Firstpost’s views.)
