Midnight Whispers Begin
As darkness envelops Fort Kochi, a unique adventure unfolds through its silent, lantern-lit lanes. Participants gather in Jew Town, embarking on a guided
walk led by Oneal Sabu, a passionate storyteller and native of the city. This nocturnal expedition isn't about typical tourist attractions; it's a descent into the town's whispered myths, oral traditions, and often overlooked historical footnotes, aiming to evoke a sense of the spectral and the unknown. The experience is designed to be immersive, encouraging silence and keen observation to potentially catch echoes of the past, from the clinking of chains to the presence of ancient spirits bound by forgotten rituals.
The Spark of Inspiration
The genesis of Sabu's evocative tours can be traced back to a captivating experience during his travels in Scotland. While exploring Edinburgh, he joined a local walking tour that delved into the city's eerie folklore, leaving him mesmerized by the vivid tales of characters that seemed to have sprung from fantastical literature. This encounter ignited the idea for two distinct projects: 'Community MeSa,' a dining experience that connects people with Kochi's multifaceted history through shared meals, and 'Phantasma,' the spectral walking tours. These initiatives stem from Sabu's deep affection for Fort Kochi, fueled by the rich narratives he absorbed growing up, a pride he proudly represents with his 'FC Boy' persona online.
Culinary and Colonial Chronicles
Sabu's ventures extend beyond ghost stories to encompass the cultural and historical tapestry of Fort Kochi. His 'Community MeSa' project, initiated in 2024, fosters a community passionate about understanding the city through personal anecdotes rather than just academic historical accounts. The 'Phantasma' tours themselves are diversified, featuring 'Colonial Crawlies' that navigate through sites steeped in colonial history and the original 'Phantasma – Jew Town' walk, focusing on localized spectral legends. Additionally, a distinct 'Community MeSa food walk' guides participants through nocturnal eateries, offering a taste of Fort Kochi's unique culinary heritage. This includes regional beverages like 'kawah,' a potent black coffee seasoned with spices and palm jaggery, a legacy of Arab traders, alongside traditional sweets and distinctive Luso-Indian sauces, such as the robust and spicy 'mussadth'.
Echoes of the Enslaved
During the Jew Town walk, a significant stop is made at a 'kapirithara,' a small shrine dedicated to the spirit of an African slave. This element of the tour shines a light on a largely forgotten aspect of Kochi's past: the arrival of African slaves brought by the Portuguese. These individuals, often tasked with guarding hidden treasures within wall niches, were sometimes interred within those same structures. To this day, locals refer to these African spirits as 'kappiris,' and offerings such as toddy, cheroots, boiled eggs, and even 'puttu' are made to 'kappirimuthappan' in hopes of receiving blessings for prosperity and wealth. This practice serves as a poignant reminder of the complex social histories embedded within the city's landscape.
Kabbalist's Cursed Legacy
Another point of fascination on the route is the tombstone of Nehemiah ben Abraham Mota, an early Kabbalist in Kerala. Legend claims his tombstone is remarkably resilient, and that he was buried alongside a 'dybbuk,' an evil spirit he reportedly summoned and contained. The original Kadavubhagam cemetery, where the tombstone was located, was sadly demolished in the early 2000s due to land encroachment. However, folklore suggests that when attempts were made to disturb the Kabbalist's tombstone, an inexplicable fire erupted in the vicinity, leaving the tombstone itself miraculously unharmed. This tale highlights the enduring power of belief and the mystique surrounding ancient figures and their reputed supernatural connections.
Challenging Perceptions
Sabu expresses a desire to counter prevalent, often negative, stereotypes associated with Fort Kochi, such as those depicted in popular media portraying residents as solely involved in illicit activities. He emphasizes that the people of Fort Kochi possess a strong sense of pride in their heritage and the town's vibrant history, which he believes has significantly influenced the broader narrative of India. His 'Phantasma – Jew Town' walk, launched in 2022, covers a 600-meter stretch, exploring specific local myths, including why a certain name must be avoided near the Paradesi Synagogue and the reverence due to the Kabbalist's tomb. The 'Colonial Crawlies' tour, introduced in 2024, delves into the historical seven bastions of Fort Kochi, uncovering unsolved mysteries like the enigmatic case of 'Otta Mulachi,' the woman with a single breast, and includes visits to cemeteries associated with victims of such unexplained events.
Atmospheric Encounters
Participants on Sabu's tours frequently report a palpable shift in atmosphere and an uncanny feeling as the narratives delve into unnatural or unexplained deaths during the 'Colonial Crawlies' walk. Vivid descriptions of historical figures, such as the Kabbalist, can evoke a spontaneous sense of unease, prompting an instinctive turn to look for unseen presences. Sabu firmly believes that integrating folk tales and personal stories with historical facts creates a more comprehensive and engaging understanding of the past. The international recognition of his tours, initially boosted by a visitor's viral YouTube video in 2024, has significantly contributed to their growing popularity, supplementing the consistent influx of new participants through word-of-mouth recommendations.
A City of Myths and Memory
The 'Phantasma' walks are a testament to Fort Kochi's enduring allure, drawing both locals and international visitors seeking an unconventional exploration of the city. Regardless of weather conditions, participants are drawn to the dimly lit streets, where the rustling leaves and distant sea sounds amplify the storytelling. Sabu, often seen with a lantern, acts as a charismatic guide, weaving tales that transform Fort Kochi from a mere scenic destination into a repository of myths, legends, and deeply etched memories. His approach is designed not just to recount ghost stories, but to cultivate an immersive experience that stirs the imagination and encourages a personal connection with the unseen dimensions of this historic locale.
