An Unforeseen Culinary Path
Rahul Akerkar's entry into the world of professional cooking was far from a planned career move. While pursuing chemical engineering in Pennsylvania, he found
himself drawn to the fast-paced environment of restaurant kitchens, honing his skills as a line chef in Mexican and Italian establishments. This hands-on experience continued even as he pursued a master's degree in biochemical engineering at Columbia University. His entrepreneurial spirit then led him to open 'Under the Over' in Kemps Corner, assist in setting up a unique space called Kuteeram near Bengaluru, before finally returning to Mumbai to establish the now-legendary Indigo in 1999. These formative experiences, driven by a blend of calculated risks and sheer intuition, laid the foundation for his future success in the hospitality industry.
The Genesis of Indigo
What began as a casual idea for a cookbook during the heydays of Indigo blossomed into a full-fledged memoir during the contemplative period of the pandemic. Akerkar, 68, who had recently launched his fine-dining restaurant Qualia, found himself amidst unprecedented uncertainty. This enforced stillness provided the impetus to reflect on his life and career. He began recording conversations with writer Perry Garfinkel, initially shaping the narrative. While a legal review led to the trimming of certain sensitive industry-related anecdotes, the resulting manuscript still vividly portrays a career built on happenstance and momentum rather than meticulous design. Akerkar candidly admits, 'I just fell into it,' a stark contrast to chefs who often cite early familial culinary influences as their primary inspiration. Unlike many who recall aromatic kitchens or familial cooking traditions, Akerkar's early food memories were shaped more by the emotional warmth and joy of meals at his paternal grandmother’s home, and the eclectic, boundary-less abundance of his German-Jewish grandmother's table, which featured dishes like steak tartare and pickled herring.
Crafting Culinary Capital
Akerkar's unconventional path proved to be his unique culinary advantage, complemented by practical training at American restaurants where repetitive tasks built essential muscle memory. For a significant period, he felt hesitant to identify as a 'chef,' harboring a sense of inadequacy. This self-doubt took considerable time to overcome. Upon returning to India, he left his PhD program due to a disagreement with his advisor and ventured into opening his first restaurant, 'Under The Over,' in 1992. This early endeavor lacked a grand, pre-defined vision, relying instead on a willingness to learn and adapt as he progressed. He attributes his initial triumphs not to innate confidence, but rather to a degree of naiveté. This lack of full foresight, he suggests, paradoxically allowed him to remain focused on authentic cuisine without the overthinking that might have accompanied greater self-assurance. Fusion cuisine emerged later, a natural progression as his comfort level grew and he began to explore flavors more creatively, inspired by culinary elements like his aunt's 'panchamrut.'
Indigo: A Fine Dining Revolution
While 'Under the Over' and 'Kuteeram' allowed Akerkar to test the waters, including serving Western dishes alongside Indian fare managed by a separate team, Indigo represented a definitive statement. Established with a substantial investment of ₹5 crore, its opening marked a significant shift in Mumbai's fine-dining scene, which was then largely dominated by conventional five-star hotel restaurants. Indigo offered a refreshing alternative: a sophisticated yet relaxed ambiance, polished yet unpretentious service, and consistently excellent food. Akerkar emphasizes that 'everything that made restauranting right' was present. The service was characterized by its warmth without being intrusive, and meticulous attention was paid to every detail, from the plating and wine selection to the interior design. This commitment to quality extended to all patrons; an anecdote recounts how even then-UK Prime Minister David Cameron, during a dinner visit, was politely informed by the manager about a kitchen delay, highlighting a policy of treating everyone with the same standard of service. Akerkar's philosophy was simple: 'You come in, you eat, you pay, you leave,' underscoring a straightforward and honest dining experience.
Beyond Indigo's Legacy
Departing from Indigo in 2018 was as challenging as its initial creation, a decision Akerkar acknowledges was the most difficult of his career, though he later felt it should have happened sooner. The restaurant had become so intertwined with his personal identity that separating from it was a profound undertaking. However, his passion for the culinary world remained undimmed. He continued to innovate, launching 'Ode,' a Mediterranean restaurant, and 'Flint,' a space centered around charcoal fire cooking, within the NCPA complex. He also opened 'Waarsa,' an establishment dedicated to Awadhi cuisine. Dismissing fleeting culinary trends as unnecessary drama, Akerkar firmly believes the core of a successful restaurant lies in mastering the fundamentals. He advocates for 'honesty on the plate'—dishes that are thoughtfully prepared, showcase respect for ingredients, and are not overly complicated. He draws parallels with Alice Waters' Chez Panisse and Mumbai's own Thakkar's Bhojanalaya, both lauded for their consistent quality and ingredient-focused menus. While acknowledging the modern necessity for 'Instagrammable' food, Akerkar remains grounded in his core philosophy of delivering well-executed, intention-driven cuisine that resonates with diners.
