A Taste of Home
Chef Jyoti Singh's cooking is a testament to his humble beginnings, deeply influenced by his Bihari roots. He speaks of his father's homemade garam masala
with a profound respect, akin to how others might value prestigious culinary awards. His fondest childhood memories often revolve around Jamshedpur, where summers meant an endless supply of mangoes. This genuine connection to his past forms the bedrock of his culinary identity, allowing him to cook food that feels both intimately familiar and refreshingly new. Singh's approach eschews performance, emphasizing an honest reflection of his upbringing and the flavors that shaped him. He finds beauty in the simplicity of home-cooked meals, which he generously shares, highlighting the importance of personal history in the kitchen.
Crafting the Curry
In Parra, North Goa, Chef Jyoti Singh meticulously prepares his signature Bihari chicken curry, a dish that embodies his personal cooking style. He carefully selects small onions for their mellow sweetness, believing they are superior to larger, more pungent varieties, aiming for a precise 1:1/2 chicken-to-onion ratio. The choice of tomatoes also matters; he prefers round varieties over long hybrids. The star ingredient, garam masala, is a precious commodity, ground by his father in Bihar and sent to Goa for careful use. This meticulous attention to detail stems from a deep understanding of taste cultivated before formal cooking training. Singh's process is unhurried, reflecting a philosophy that prioritizes the essence of ingredients and time-honored techniques, creating a dish that is both a culinary masterpiece and a comforting echo of his childhood.
Nostalgic Culinary Archive
Chef Singh's earliest culinary influences stem from his childhood visits to his grandmothers' homes in Muzaffarpur and Hajipur. These annual trips during school holidays created a rich 'archive' of tastes that continue to inspire his cooking today. He vividly recalls a time when men would bring live quails, 'bater,' to the village, and if available, his grandmother would prepare them. Otherwise, chicken curry, always cooked over a wood fire using mustard oil or ghee, was the meal of choice. These experiences laid the foundation for his understanding of authentic regional flavors, emphasizing natural cooking methods and seasonal ingredients. The memories of these meals are deeply embedded in his culinary identity, shaping the dishes he prepares and the stories he tells through his food.
A Fusion of Flavors
The Bihari chicken curry Singh prepares today features a subtle yet significant addition: smoked Naga chilli. This unique ingredient, introduced by his wife who hails from Nagaland, represents a harmonious blend of their cultural backgrounds. Singh now prefers this smoky, less intense chili over traditional powders, marveling at how their Bihar-Nagaland marriage has beautifully translated into a single, cohesive dish. This integration of diverse culinary influences highlights Singh's open-minded approach to cooking, where he embraces new flavors and techniques while respecting the core essence of his traditional recipes. The curry itself is intentionally restrained, with a focus on natural gravy enrichment from the whole chicken, showcasing a 'homemade' quality that he considers the highest compliment.
From Hotels to Independence
Chef Singh's journey into the culinary world was somewhat serendipitous. Graduating from the Institute of Hotel Management in Goa in 2006, he initially pursued a path that led him through prestigious establishments like Trident and The Oberoi. His career spanned various Indian cities and international locations, including Egypt and Indonesia. However, the rigid structure of hotel kitchens eventually felt confining, prompting a desire for new experiences. A significant earthquake in Indonesia in 2018 brought him back to India, serving as a catalyst for change. This period of introspection led him to a year of dedicated travel in 2019, exploring regions like Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Bihar, Jharkhand, Assam, and Nagaland, with the sole purpose of eating and absorbing diverse culinary traditions.
Reimagining Familiar Dishes
Currently, Chef Singh champions a culinary philosophy at restaurants like The Second House and Cafe Lento, where he subtly reinterprets well-known dishes. His approach involves taking a familiar name and transforming the dish entirely, offering a unique gastronomic experience. For instance, his Butter Garlic Mushroom, a common continental menu item, is elevated at The Second House with a variety of mushrooms, a rich mushroom stock reduction, and stracciatella cheese, creating a dish that surprises and delights diners who think they know what to expect. Similarly, at Cafe Lento, he meticulously remakes items like croissants, cures and smokes salmon in-house, and crafts artisanal sausages. His McPav is inspired by a childhood McChicken, and his crab omelette showcases refined French folding techniques, generously filled to his satisfaction.
The Art of Cooking Home
At home, Chef Singh's table is set with simplicity and comfort: chicken curry, paneer bhurji, jeera-aloo, dal, rice, and crispy triangular parathas. He playfully deflects requests for his chicken curry recipe, joking about guarding his culinary secrets. Yet, he reiterates that the curry's color is its true identifier – homemade. While he admits that food prepared by others often tastes better, he dedicates significant attention to his home cooking, especially on his days off. When alone, elaborate meals are usually forgone for simpler fare, often eggs. However, on this occasion, he cooked with the same unwavering focus and care he applies to his professional creations, underscoring a deep-seated passion for preparing food that nourishes both body and soul.
