A Risky Beginning
Gallops, a cherished Mumbai dining establishment, marks four decades of operation, a testament to the vision and perseverance of its founders. Established
in 1986 within the scenic Mahalaxmi Racecourse, its inception was far from a guaranteed success. The restaurant's origin story is rooted in a friendship between Rahul Malik, a former manager at Talk of the Town, and regulars Jasmine and Bobby Singh. Recognizing an opportunity to operate a restaurant at the racecourse, the trio initially faced rejection but persevered with a higher bid, ultimately securing the lease. What they inherited, however, was a space in dire need of transformation. Jasmine Singh, in a recent conversation alongside her son Mikhail Singh and Rahul's son Yajush Malik, recalled the challenging initial conditions: leaky roofs necessitating buckets and a rudimentary kitchen structure within a mere 1,500 sq ft dining area. Despite these obstacles, they managed a swift opening just ten days after taking over, demonstrating remarkable resilience and commitment. Their first patrons, a foreign family, were served amidst ongoing renovations, highlighting the immediate dedication to hospitality. Early memories include planting two now-towering rubber trees at the entrance, one of which now supports a distinctive chandelier, a signature element of Gallops' ambiance. Initially, the focus was on race-day catering, featuring items like sandwiches and pastries from an in-house wood-fired bakery, with the restaurant itself opening only for dinner. The initial menu comprised a focused selection of Indian and Continental dishes, setting the stage for a culinary journey that would span decades.
Enduring Flavors, Evolving Space
Despite the passage of time and shifting culinary trends, Gallops has masterfully maintained its core identity while embracing thoughtful evolution. Many of the dishes that graced its early single-page menu remain beloved staples today, including the iconic Chicken à la Kiev, grilled fish in lemon butter sauce, roast lamb with pepper wine sauce, butter chicken, and bhuna gosht. This commitment to abundance and generous portions, a stark contrast to the minimalist plating often favored in contemporary dining, is a defining characteristic. Yajush and Mikhail, who joined the establishment in 2013, humorously recount their efforts to modernize plating and sauce presentation, which were initially met with resistance from their parents' generation who championed lavish sauce servings. This mid-point compromise, serving sauces on the side, exemplifies the blend of tradition and adaptation that defines Gallops. The menu has since expanded cautiously, incorporating regional Indian specialties like Chettinad chicken and Kashmiri gosht yakhni, alongside continental favorites. A notable addition is the dori kebab, a dish that originated from a serendipitous discovery on the streets of Delhi, whose creator was brought to Mumbai to perfect it as a house signature. The physical space has also undergone significant transformations. A pivotal renovation in 1998 by architect Vistasp Kharas, who also revisited the design in 2024, opened up the interior, revealing exposed wooden beams and expanding the layout, including the addition of a distinct bar area featuring Brazilian Avocado marble. Decorative touches like a memorabilia wall and an M. F. Husain-designed menu card add to the restaurant's narrative. A more impactful change occurred in 2019 when the outdoor area was reimagined by Shahen Mistry, creating a versatile alfresco space capable of hosting various events. Post-pandemic, the introduction of sought-after cabanas provided an intimate dining experience. Seasonal adjustments to the garden and layout ensure the environment remains fresh and inviting for regulars, offering new perspectives on this enduring venue.
A Hub for Mumbai's Elite
Gallops has long served as a magnet for Mumbai's discerning clientele, attracting industrialists, actors, and established families who value both its discreet ambiance and its picturesque setting. The list of prominent personalities who have graced its premises is extensive, spanning generations. During the heyday of horse racing, Sundays at Gallops were a grand affair, drawing up to 5,000 attendees, including the city's elite, all dressed in their finest, long before the ubiquity of mobile phones and social media. The restaurant has hosted lavish pre-Derby parties for figures like Vijay Mallya and provided a quiet haven for artists like M. F. Husain, who would sketch on napkins during his visits. Long-time regulars include names like Cyrus Poonawalla, Sanjay Dutt, and Jackie Shroff, who continues to be a patron. More recently, the venue has been a popular choice for celebrity events, including a fan event hosted by Deepika Padukone, a wedding function for Arjun Tendulkar, and a birthday celebration for Kareena Kapoor Khan's son. Vidya Balan and her family also dined there recently. Beyond dining, Gallops has also served as a backdrop for creative projects, including film shoots for 'Gehraiyaan' and music projects featuring artists like Diljit Dosanjh. Despite this association with high-profile guests and events, Gallops has deliberately avoided overt self-promotion, maintaining a low-key presence with no aggressive social media campaigns. The allure of privacy remains a significant part of its appeal. The restaurant's growth into a significant events business, encompassing weddings, brand launches, and large festivals, further solidifies its position as a versatile venue. It has catered for major international artists such as Dua Lipa and Linkin Park, and collaborated with luxury brands like Lamborghini for showcases on its lawns, demonstrating its expanded capacity and appeal.
Generations of Loyalty
The enduring success of Gallops is profoundly reflected in its multi-generational clientele, a testament to its ability to foster deep connections and create lasting memories. Diners who first experienced the restaurant in the 1980s and 1990s now return with their children, and increasingly, their grandchildren, transforming Gallops into a cherished family tradition. Mikhail Singh aptly describes it as a place where families celebrate life's milestones, from birthdays and anniversaries to 'dekha-dekhi' gatherings, referring to traditional arranged marriage meetings. This generational loyalty underscores the restaurant's consistent quality and its role as a constant in the lives of its patrons. Consistency, as Yajush Malik emphasizes, is the most challenging aspect of maintaining such a legacy, and it is precisely this reliability that draws people back. Recipes are meticulously guarded not through secrecy, but through disciplined execution, with even minor variations in spice batches being carefully monitored. This dedication ensures that the familiar taste and comforting experience remain unwavering. The commitment to hospitality extends beyond the food; the staff, many of whom have been with Gallops for years, treat patrons like family, recognizing regulars and anticipating their preferences. This personal touch cultivates an atmosphere of warmth and belonging, akin to a second home for many. As Gallops looks to the future, there's an openness to expansion within Mumbai, actively seeking new spaces. However, the founders are clear that any new venture would not be a replica of Gallops, emphasizing that the unique essence of the original cannot be replicated in a generic setting like a mall. The pursuit of new projects will be guided by the spirit of the space, ensuring that whatever they create next will be as thoughtfully conceived and enduring as Gallops itself has become.
