A Symphony of Creatives
Behind every dazzling fashion show lies an intricate network of professionals, far beyond the designer and models. Take Anita Dongre's 'Rewild' show as an example,
staged at the magnificent Lukshmi Vilas Palace. While the stunning venue and over 70 unique looks were central, the event's success hinged on the meticulous coordination of a diverse creative team. Delhi-based choreographers Aparna Bahl Bedi and Anisha Bahl, from Preferred Professionals, were instrumental in maintaining the show's cohesive sensory experience. Pujan Kapur Sharma orchestrated the backstage operations, managing over 70 models, along with dedicated makeup and hair artists and styling teams. The auditory landscape was curated by musicians Gaurav Raina, Komorebi, and Karsh Kale, while creative director Edward Lalrempuia shaped the overall visual narrative. Lalrempuia's involvement began six months prior, delving into fabric details, establishing a color palette, and conducting silhouette tests with models. He also collaborates closely with Dongre on hair and makeup, emphasizing a clean aesthetic and ensuring model comfort with flat footwear. This collaborative effort underscores how a dedicated army of specialists contributes to the brief, impactful moments of a runway presentation, a stark contrast to past eras where fewer individuals shouldered these diverse responsibilities.
From Solo Acts to Teams
The role of the fashion choreographer has dramatically evolved over the decades. Veteran choreographer Harmeet Bajaj, a pioneer in the field, recalls a time when these shows were far more DIY. In her 30-year career, she was involved in numerous aspects, from directing lighting operators to spotlighting models, and even selecting designers for overseas events. Back then, the choreographer was often a jack-of-all-trades, handling elements that are now specialized roles. Early Indian fashion shows were often integrated into larger events like trade fairs, with the first significant one showcasing Bhanu Athaiya's work at the India 1958 Trade Fair. The late 1980s saw more experimental gatherings, like the Ensemble show at Mumbai's Taj Mahal Palace, which brought together multiple designers. The formalization of the Indian fashion industry, with the Fashion Design Council of India unifying designers and the launch of Lakmē India Fashion Week in 2000, provided a more structured platform for these events. This evolution marks a significant shift from the past, where a single individual performed many tasks, to today's landscape of specialized creative teams.
Crafting Narratives for Today
The nature of fashion shows has transformed from straightforward industry presentations into captivating experiences. Show director Prasad Bidapa highlights that while earlier shows focused primarily on the collection with a runway and good lighting, contemporary shows must deliver a compelling and memorable story. This shift is driven by the need for visual impact and audience engagement, especially in the digital age. An example is the Ensemble show at Ahmedabad’s Natarani amphitheatre. While showcasing designs from over 50 designers, a standout moment was the presence of classical dancer Mallika Sarabhai. Choreographed by Alison A Woodham and styled by Gautam Kalra, this interlude broke the conventional ramp walk, offering a glimpse into Ensemble's broader creative vision and engaging the audience beyond just the clothing. This focus on storytelling aims to create moments that resonate and are shareable, reflecting the demands of modern media consumption.
Digital Applause and Immersion
Stylists like Daniel Franklin now play a crucial role in not only highlighting the clothes but also engineering shareable moments for social media. For Urvashi Kaur's 15-year anniversary show in 2024, Franklin emphasized showcasing the wearable nature of the designs on 'real people' and encouraged models to interact with the audience. The resulting video of Ratna Pathak Shah twirling on the runway garnered significant online attention. Franklin also orchestrated specific visual elements, such as models carrying metal potlis with incense sticks at one show, referencing altar boys cleansing a space, a moment that also went viral. This focus on creating digital buzz is essential in today's connected world. Furthermore, there's a growing emphasis on creating immersive experiences, blurring the lines between the audience and the spectacle. Unlike previous eras where runways were distant, current designs often place the audience closer, aiming to make them feel part of the show. Brands like Lovebirds and péro have cleverly integrated interactive elements, such as serving signature snacks at a collaboration show, inviting viewers to actively participate in the experience.
The Immersion Challenge
The drive towards creating immersive and visually exciting experiences presents challenges, particularly for emerging designers. While the spectacle draws audiences, it requires substantial budgets and creative investment. Prasad Bidapa points out that the audience now expects shows to be visually stimulating and culturally relevant, demanding more than just a presentation of clothes. Successful shows, he notes, effectively combine strong design with intelligent storytelling and theatrical flair. However, this quest for theatricality can sometimes overshadow the core product. For new designers with limited resources, achieving the level of production seen in established shows can be difficult, potentially leading to a focus on the message at the expense of the garment's inherent meaning. Ultimately, while theatrical elements enhance a show, the runway's most significant drama should still originate from the clothing itself, a balance that continues to be refined in the evolving landscape of fashion presentations.
