Fabric Finish Impact
New findings reveal a strong correlation between how jeans are treated in production and the amount of fibre they release into washing machines. Research
from The Microfibre Consortium indicates that the initial processing stage is critical in determining the environmental footprint of denim. Specifically, a combination of mercerised yarn, which is cotton that has undergone a chemical treatment to enhance its luster and strength, alongside certain washing techniques, can lead to an astonishing reduction in fibre shedding. This reduction can range from a substantial 77% up to an impressive 93% for each wash cycle a consumer undertakes. This means that the choices made long before a pair of jeans reaches your wardrobe have a profound and measurable effect on textile pollution.
Problematic Wash Styles
Certain popular denim finishing processes, while aesthetically pleasing, inadvertently cause significant fabric damage, leading to increased fibre loss. The study identified 'stone washing' and 'towel washing' as particularly detrimental. Stone washing, favoured for creating a pre-worn, faded appearance, involves tumbling jeans with stones, which erodes the fabric over time. Similarly, towel washing, used to achieve a speckled or distressed look through washing with bleached towels, also subjects the denim to harsh friction. This abrasive treatment weakens the textile fibres, making them prone to breaking off and shedding. Worryingly, this heightened shedding persists even after the jeans have been washed multiple times by the end-user, contributing to microplastic pollution in waterways.
Beneficial Wash Styles
In contrast to the damaging effects of stone and towel washes, other finishing methods show promising results in minimizing fibre release. Intensive bleach washes, often referred to as 'heavy bleach,' and 'ice washes' demonstrate a notable improvement in fabric integrity. Ice washes, which employ pumice stones and often result in a bleached-out appearance as the blue dye turns white, appear to create a smoother fabric surface. This smoother texture reduces the likelihood of fibres detaching during subsequent laundering. By making the fabric more resilient to wear and tear during consumer use, these methods significantly slow down the degradation process, thereby retaining more fibres within the garment and reducing its environmental impact.
Design for Sustainability
This research underscores the pivotal role of design and manufacturing choices in fostering a more sustainable fashion industry. The findings suggest that by carefully selecting fabric treatments and finishing techniques, brands can substantially mitigate the environmental consequences associated with the consumer's use phase of denim products. However, these conclusions are still in their early stages, and brands should not immediately overhaul their strategies based solely on these preliminary results. A wash process that excels at retaining fibres might have negative implications elsewhere, such as contributing to water contamination during production. Therefore, the consortium advocates for a balanced approach, urging the industry to harmonize the environmental impact of production with the sustainability of the product's lifecycle.
