A Culinary Time Capsule
Nestled within Mumbai's bustling Palladium, The Silver Train offers an extraordinary dining experience, transporting patrons to the opulent past of India's
royal households. Chef Anuradha Joshi Medhora, a devoted scholar of India's regal culinary heritage, leads this remarkable establishment. Her passion lies in unearthing and meticulously recreating recipes that have been preserved in palace kitchen notebooks, passed down through oral traditions, and guarded within the archives of aristocratic families. The restaurant's name itself is inspired by a miniature railway that once served dishes to maharaja dining tables, hinting at the grandeur and unique service style that awaits. The Silver Train aims to do more than just reproduce historical dishes; it seeks to breathe life back into them, creating a dining experience that is both educational and utterly delicious, offering a genuine connection to India's rich gastronomic history.
The Seven-Day Royal Feast
The centerpiece of The Silver Train's innovative menu is its 'Silver Thali,' a seven-day rotating collection of dishes that transforms a meal into an immersive royal feast. This isn't merely a menu to choose from; it's an unfolding narrative of India's diverse palace kitchens, spanning different eras and regions. The sheer variety ensures that multiple visits are necessary to fully appreciate the breadth of its offerings – one or even seven trips might not be enough. Each day unveils a distinct procession of royal delicacies, meticulously researched and prepared to reflect the authentic flavors of bygone eras. The current iteration of the thali might feature the maash ki dal from Rampur, where black lentils are slow-cooked to a sublime, silken texture, or a saatvik varan from Baroda, prepared in a pure style without onions or garlic, allowing the delicate flavor of toor dal and precisely calibrated spices to shine.
Bread, Sides, and Starters
The culinary journey at The Silver Train begins with an exceptional bread basket that redefines the concept, often featuring four to five varieties daily. Among these are delights like almond naan, and sheer maal, a bread so rich it verges on being a dessert in its own right. These breads are perfect accompaniments to dishes like Dahi bhindi from Mewar, or the unique apple gourd from the Bhonsle kitchens, which offers a flavor profile far removed from common expectations of gourds. A small silver bowl, reminiscent of royal tableware, holds makkhan, or white butter, an essential element meant to be generously smeared across rotis or savored on its own for a moment of pure indulgence. These elements serve as the prelude to the more elaborate main courses, setting a high standard for the intricate flavors to come.
Bold Flavors, Forgotten Techniques
The restaurant fearlessly delves into intensely flavored and rarely encountered dishes. The Jodhpuri laal maas arrives as a striking, deep red curry, a testament to the potent spice language of Rajasthan, particularly its use of mathania chillies and slow-cooking techniques, a complexity that many modern restaurants overlook. For those seeking to challenge their perceptions of vegetables, the Dogra kokar kofta, made from bitter melon dumplings, offers a surprisingly delightful experience. Equally intriguing is the Bilaspur baingan bhandhej, where eggplant is meticulously tied and 'dyed' before cooking, allowing spices to penetrate in intricate patterns, a preparation method that blurs the line between culinary art and delightful eccentricity. The Bihari chura matar, a simple yet profound dish of flattened rice and peas, is a must-try, proving that humble ingredients can achieve extraordinary results.
Coastal Touches and Vegetarian Wonders
The Silver Train expertly navigates diverse culinary landscapes, offering dishes that speak of different coastal influences and innovative vegetarian creations. The Badam nariyal ke jheenge showcases prawns cooked with almonds and coconut, presenting a delicate yet flavorful coastal profile. Meanwhile, the Malwa ke kathal kebab offers a compelling rendition of jackfruit kebabs from Madhya Pradesh, subtly dismantling the notion that vegetarian food must mimic meat, instead celebrating the inherent qualities of the ingredient. Even familiar dishes are reimagined; the Banganapalle chicken wings are infused with the essence of mangoes from Andhra Pradesh, creating an unexpected yet harmonious flavor pairing. For vegetarian patrons seeking alternatives to paneer and aloo, the dahi butti, or yogurt dumplings, provide a refreshing and sophisticated option, showcasing the vast potential of Indian vegetarian cuisine.
A Taste of Luxury and Innovation
The menu continues to surprise with dishes that highlight forgotten luxuries and innovative combinations. The Tripura maami rice, fragrant and delicately prepared, served with ghee infused with podi, is a compelling reason to visit, offering a taste of refined Eastern Indian culinary traditions. Equally noteworthy is the ande ka halwa, an egg-based sweet that, despite sounding potentially overwhelming, delivers a rich and satisfyingly sweet experience, underscoring the historical perception of eggs and sugar as luxurious ingredients. The restaurant also introduces a clever portioning system, 'Ek. Do. Chaar.' (One. Two. Four.), which adeptly addresses the common diner's dilemma of wanting to sample multiple dishes without over-ordering. This system allows patrons to order single portions, multiple dishes for sharing, or a combination thereof, making it easier to explore the extensive menu without waste.
Artful Cocktails and Ambiance
Complementing the regal food menu is 'The Silver Bar,' which offers a curated selection of inventive cocktails. The 'Silver Bar Milk Punch' is a clarified tropical concoction that evokes the sophisticated atmosphere of a colonial club, presenting a clear, complex, and surprisingly refreshing beverage. The 'Jadi Booti Negroni' daringly combines Campari with traditional Indian herbs like tulsi and mint, creating a fusion that defies conventional expectations but ultimately succeeds. For those preferring non-alcoholic options, the 'Drytales' range of zero-proof cocktails features vibrant flavors inspired by indigenous fruits such as jamun, chikoo, custard apple, and mulberry. The restaurant's ambiance is designed to mirror the 'cool wing of a palace,' featuring handcrafted ceramic wall plates, elegant chandeliers, and distinctive Sabyasachi wallpaper, all contributing to a beautiful and approachable regal atmosphere where diners feel like honored guests.
