A Monochromatic Revelation
Following a whirlwind of positive reception for her "Echoes in Monochrome" collection at Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI, designer Sohaya Misra has been the
recipient of significant acclaim and a surge in orders. This latest offering, showcased in Mumbai, represents over a decade of her unique design journey. It builds upon her established anti-fit, free-spirited aesthetic while also introducing a nuanced evolution in her design language. Misra deliberately steered away from a conventional runway presentation, opting instead for a captivating performance art piece. This unconventional approach, set in an amphitheater, featured models in a dynamic, spiraling movement, bringing Chola's signature layered and oversized garments to life. These pieces, characterized by asymmetric drapes, exaggerated skirts with voluminous details, unique bibs, pleated skirts, and smocked maxi dresses crafted from materials like kala cotton, linen, and poplin, were presented exclusively in a monochromatic palette with subtle grey accents. This collection marked a notable shift, introducing a degree of structure to what has historically been a more fluid design identity.
Intentional Design Disruption
While adjectives like 'chaos' and 'disorder' might describe the theatrical presentation of "Echoes in Monochrome," Sohaya Misra asserts that a deliberate method underpinned the 'madness'. Communicating via video call from her Goa headquarters, Misra explained her intention was not to be overtly political but to evoke a specific emotional response from the audience. She emphasized that Chola's fluid silhouettes are inherently designed to interact with and be enhanced by movement. This philosophy is deeply rooted in her personal journey, which began not in design but as a stylist. A pivotal moment occurred when she sourced 200 meters of linen, leading her to reconsider her career path and eventually craft a capsule collection. This led to her debut at Lakmē Fashion Week's GenNext show, where her bold approach to dressing men in skirts and dresses championed gender fluidity, a characteristic that has since become synonymous with the Chola brand, though initially arising from chance rather than a preconceived plan.
Fluidity Meets Form
Chola’s design ethos, initially driven by Misra's personal preference for unstructured clothing, has evolved to become a distinct voice in fashion, celebrated for its age and size-agnostic ensembles. The brand masterfully employs maximal layering and amplifies volume through design elements such as voluminous sleeves, asymmetric tailoring, and Victorian-inspired ruffles. Misra often draws inspiration from the esteemed Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. Her ongoing pursuit is to find an equilibrium between practical wearability and dramatic drape, achieved through innovative garments like shape-shifting shirts and jackets. These often feature integrated strings and belts, allowing the wearer to dynamically alter the garment's silhouette with each wear. Reflecting on her past as a stylist, Misra notes her focus on how clothes integrate with different body types and develop a lived-in character. This season, the seamless fusion of structure with Chola's characteristic deconstructed aesthetic was a key development, with inflated proportions now balanced by a sense of restraint, evident in features like shapely bibs and suspender-like ties. Looking ahead, Misra is keen to broaden her material palette to include handloom chanderi and collaborate more directly with craft communities.
Celebrating Individuality Through Performance
Chola consistently utilizes performance and theatrical elements as a medium to celebrate individuality, promote acceptance, and champion freedom. This approach was vividly demonstrated in the 2018 collection, "Bye Felicia," which featured drag queens and models, advocating for men in lipstick and women with beards. Similarly, the Summer 2020 showcase incorporated a dance routine by the Goan performing arts group Omaggio, highlighting the intricate relationship between fabric and movement. This freewheeling and experimental ethos has resonated deeply with a diverse community, attracting dancers, dreamers, and individuals who define themselves outside conventional norms. The brand's notable supporters include actors like Konkona Sen Sharma, Neha Dhupia, and Prateik Smita Patil, as well as hairstylist Adhuna Bhabani and musician Anushka Manchanda, all of whom embody the spirit of individuality that Chola celebrates.
A Decade of Deliberate Growth
A glance at Chola's Instagram feed reveals a conscious departure from hyper-stylized campaigns and sporadic posting, a rarity in today's content-saturated landscape. Currently operating with a small team, including one master tailor and three additional tailors, Misra maintains a commitment to small-batch production, creating approximately 150-200 pieces monthly. She expresses a contentment with maintaining the brand's niche status while acknowledging the necessity of strategic presence in the current market. Misra is actively seeking a balance between exclusivity and broader brand visibility. Although relocating to Goa from Mumbai in 2018 initially led to a slower pace due to the region's relaxed lifestyle, it reinforced her determination to increase the brand's offline presence through pop-up events in Dubai, Goa, and Mumbai. The Middle East and the United States are also significant contributors to the brand's revenue through online sales. Following the strong positive response to her latest collection, Misra is focused on strategically enhancing Chola's brand presence. With plans to relocate her studio back to Mumbai, she anticipates exciting future developments. Misra describes her journey thus far as largely spontaneous and unplanned, but she now prioritizes strategic planning for the benefit of her team and the brand's sustained growth.
