The Spectacle Formula
Contemporary fashion presentations often follow a predictable script: exotic locales, elaborate sets, captivating music, and a front row brimming with
influencers and brand ambassadors, all orchestrated to generate buzz online and translate into sales. This approach prioritizes spectacle and social media virality, aiming to become the talk of the digital world. The ultimate goal is to create a memorable event that not only garners significant online attention but also effectively drives business for the brand. This recipe has become so standard that it can lead to a sense of repetition, where each show aims to outdo the last in terms of its 'internet-breaking' potential, sometimes at the expense of the garments themselves.
A Refreshing Counterpoint
In contrast to the typical grand productions, an event in Ahmedabad offered a different vision. Held at an amphitheater by the Sabarmati river, the setting was understated yet detailed, deliberately designed to keep the focus squarely on the attire. Instead of a heavily curated influencer-laden front row, the audience consisted of approximately 100 attendees – a mix of buyers, fashion enthusiasts, and a few journalists – seated on simple concrete steps. Accompanied by gentle music, the 35-minute showcase presented over 80 looks from 50 ready-to-wear designers across India. This gathering was the runway comeback for Ensemble, a pioneering multi-designer store that had been instrumental in launching designers in the 1980s. Each presentation highlighted the versatility of styling by integrating clothing, jewelry, and accessories from various brands, emphasizing how existing wardrobe pieces can be reinterpreted for diverse occasions.
The 'IYKYK' Experience
Notably absent from this event was a live-stream, a common practice in contemporary fashion weeks and brand presentations. The lack of content creators capturing and sharing real-time reactions online transformed the showcase into an intimate 'if you know, you know' (IYKYK) experience. Attendees in the audience had exclusive access to practical styling insights – like repurposing a sari as a beach dress or transforming a dhoti for a wedding, or understanding how a simple ring could elevate a casual outfit. This deliberate choice to forgo broad digital dissemination meant that valuable styling knowledge and aesthetic appreciation were reserved for those present, fostering a sense of discovery and shared insight among a more focused group.
Reclaiming Fashion's Roots
The founder of Ensemble, Tina Tahiliani Parikh, expressed dissatisfaction with the current trend of filling fashion show seats with influencers, describing it as overly transactional. Her daughter, Aria, echoed this sentiment, stating a desire to revive the traditional essence of fashion presentations. While eschewing the allure of widespread digital attention and the constant chase for viral moments might mean fewer eyeballs on the brand, it represents a deliberate choice to move away from the superficiality that often accompanies overly commercialized events. This approach risks limiting access for a wider audience who might not purchase but still wish to engage with and feel a part of the fashion conversation.
The Fatigue of Sameness
The prevailing sentiment among fashion journalists between events is often one of repetition: 'It's the same.' This widespread feeling of sameness stems from the industry's relentless pursuit of viral moments, where every show strives to 'break the internet.' This approach, while potentially driving immediate business through sensationalism or algorithmic appeal, can paradoxically lead to a dilution of individual brand identity and creative distinction. The constant pressure to generate shareable content can overshadow the actual artistry and craftsmanship of the garments, making it difficult for genuine innovation to stand out amidst the noise of manufactured excitement and fleeting trends.
Nostalgia and Deeper Connection
The current trend towards nostalgia reflects a collective yearning for an era when fashion, like photography, was about sharing memories and personal moments rather than seeking validation. Users are increasingly gravitating towards static posts and high-quality images over fast-paced reels, signaling a desire for more meaningful engagement and authentic connection. This shift suggests that the fashion industry, much like broader digital culture, may be experiencing a pivot away from superficial virality towards a more substantive appreciation of design, craft, and personal expression. The move towards 'slow' or 'analogue' approaches in fashion can be seen as a radical act in an industry often characterized by excess and fleeting digital fame.
