A Summer State of Mind
The designer's latest collection, 'Longing,' is a vibrant ode to summer, artfully expressed through campaign visuals and wearable pieces. The aesthetic
marries the intimacy of affection with a desire for connection, showcased in silhouettes that are both comfortable and stylish. Think lush nashpati green hues, denim adorned with intricate kantha embroidery, and striking tomato-red tunics crafted from luxurious mulberry silk. This collection intentionally sidesteps the fleeting trends of viral fashion, opting instead for a youthful, understated elegance that carves out a distinct space amidst the visual noise of contemporary fashion. It’s a deliberate choice to create pieces that resonate with quiet sophistication and enduring appeal, rather than chasing immediate, ephemeral popularity. The campaign itself, captured by photographer Tarun Kalyani, mirrors this sentiment, focusing on subtle narratives and a serene, summery mood that invites contemplation and appreciation.
Craft as Technique
In an era where ready-to-wear dominates and the distinctive 'craftsy-cool' Indian aesthetic is gaining international acclaim, maintaining relevance poses a significant challenge. For this designer, who has meticulously cultivated this signature style since the brand's inception in 2009, this period marks a thoughtful evolution. He approaches craft not merely as ornamentation, but as a fundamental technique and a primary material. His journey began with the goal of making traditional craft practices accessible and consumable in a modern context. Over the years, he has developed a unique graphic language by reinterpreting these heritage techniques, infusing them with a contemporary sensibility. His patterns and motifs, often inspired by geometry, demonstrate a forward-thinking approach to traditional artistry. This philosophy ensures that each piece is not just aesthetically pleasing but also a testament to thoughtful design and skilled execution, upholding the brand's commitment to high-quality garments that stand the test of time and trends.
Precision and Minimalism
The designer champions a minimalist perspective, where the precision of craft takes center stage, allowing the product itself to be the hero. This philosophy is evident in the innovative application of traditional stitches and patterns. For instance, the classic long kantha stitch is reinterpreted as a series of delicate dots, forming abstract and graphic compositions. Similarly, traditional shibori and kantha techniques are expanded upon through experimental resist-dyeing and smocking processes, yielding unique symbolic patterns. This dedication to refining and recontextualizing crafts is further enhanced by collaborations with artisan clusters across West Bengal, Gujarat, Telangana, and Tamil Nadu. These partnerships bring to life collections enriched with handloom textiles and diverse techniques such as aari embroidery, bandhani, ikat, and crocheting, ensuring each garment carries a story of heritage and skilled craftsmanship. This meticulous attention to detail and innovative application of traditional skills defines the brand's distinctive identity.
New Narratives in Color
Often beginning his design process with a focus on color or texture, this collection, 'Longing,' not only revisits the designer's established signatures but also introduces fresh conceptual directions. While the signature dot-sized kantha stitches remain a key element, they are now complemented by novel shibori experiments applied to fabrics like organza and poplin, materials not previously explored by the brand. The palette also ventures into more vivid hues than typically seen, reflecting an intention to inject optimism and cheer into a world grappling with uncertainty. A notable return to botanical motifs sees them rendered in a more abstract and conceptual manner. This thoughtful evolution showcases a designer not only refining his core aesthetic but also bravely exploring new creative territories, pushing boundaries while staying true to his artistic vision and the brand's evolving narrative, making each collection a unique exploration.
Embracing Imperfection
Drawing inspiration from bucolic themes, folklore, and what he terms 'happenstance' – patterns emerging organically from everyday occurrences – the designer finds beauty in serendipity. This philosophy extends to embracing perceived flaws, such as slightly uneven stitches or subtle variations in dyeing, and integrating them as charming design details. This approach to revamping and refining his minimalist aesthetic for a dynamic market involves building upon existing techniques. An example of this is the delicate integration of small pearls alongside hand-done stitches, subtly enhancing textural richness. Looking ahead, the brand plans to diversify its offerings by incorporating tactile elements like pashmina and Banarasi brocades, moving beyond their use as mere motifs to become integral textural components in future collections, further enriching the brand's material vocabulary.
Expanding the Universe
Beyond apparel, the brand's repertoire has thoughtfully expanded to include a range of complementary items such as jewelry, bags, footwear, textile artworks, and embroidered pocket squares. A recent collaborative venture with a Delhi-based pottery studio, A Clay Story, resulted in a limited-edition collection of embroidered ceramic objects, marking a significant step towards building a multi-genre brand universe. This successful foray has paved the way for future explorations, with bespoke furniture design now on the horizon. This strategic diversification demonstrates a vision to create a holistic lifestyle brand, offering a cohesive aesthetic that extends beyond clothing and into various facets of contemporary living, allowing customers to experience the brand's unique design language across a broader spectrum of products and experiences.
A Haven of Calm
The brand's flagship store in Defence Colony, adorned with wooden accents and original artworks by the designer, offers a tranquil retreat. This physical space, strategically relocated from the bustling Dhan Mill compound, is designed to foster a sense of calm and encourage leisurely exploration of the brand's world. For the designer, the value of offline retail remains paramount, serving as a vital conduit for building a loyal clientele through word-of-mouth referrals and personal connections. The move to Defence Colony in 2024 was a deliberate choice to cultivate an immersive and experiential atmosphere that prioritizes client engagement. Situated alongside other notable design houses, the store provides an environment where customers can truly connect with the brand's ethos and aesthetic, reinforcing its position as a destination for curated design experiences rather than just a retail space.
Global Reach and Evolution
While initially distributing through multi-designer outlets in the UAE and London, the brand has recently intensified its online retail presence. This strategic shift has successfully attracted a clientele from markets including the US, Europe, Germany, and Australia, significantly broadening its international footprint. Although menswear was the initial focus and remains a forte, the designer has confidently expanded into womenswear, with popular items including flowing tunics, coordinated sets, and intricately embroidered jackets. While the brand historically catered to an older demographic, typically over 40, there's been a noticeable shift towards attracting younger customers. The inclusion of contemporary fabrics like denim in recent collections reflects this evolving customer base and the brand's adaptability to contemporary fashion demands and preferences.
Conscious Growth Philosophy
Reflecting on nearly 16 years of brand building, the designer defines growth through a commitment to fair employee compensation and conscious production practices. He emphasizes the importance of scaling mindfully, ensuring that expansion does not compromise ethical standards or product integrity. The brand continues to operate on a small-batch production model, a deliberate choice that supports both quality control and responsible manufacturing. This approach allows for meticulous attention to detail in every piece and minimizes waste, aligning with a sustainable vision for the fashion industry. This dedication to ethical practices and thoughtful growth underscores a philosophy that prioritizes long-term value and positive impact over rapid, unchecked expansion, cementing the brand's reputation for integrity and considered creation.
