What's Happening?
The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute has announced a new exhibition titled “extraORDINARY: Fashion and the Poetics of the Everyday,” set to open on May 9, 2027. This exhibition replaces a previously planned John Galliano show, which was
canceled two months prior due to significant backlash from donors and others concerning the designer's past antisemitic and anti-Asian comments. The new show will feature reimagined everyday garments and humble materials, such as puffer jackets, jeans, Bubble Wrap, and paper, presented as high fashion. Among the items expected to be displayed are Marc Jacobs’s 1990s grunge collection for Perry Ellis and the Calvin Klein jeans famously worn by Brooke Shields in her 1980 ad campaign. Andrew Bolton, the curator in charge of the Costume Institute, confirmed that there was no contingency plan in place at the time of the initial cancellation, and the new exhibition is intended to follow the current year's “Costume Art” show.
Why It's Important?
This development highlights the increasing scrutiny and accountability faced by cultural institutions regarding the public figures they choose to honor. The cancellation of the Galliano exhibition, despite his prominence in fashion, underscores a growing intolerance for controversial past behaviors, particularly those involving antisemitism and anti-Asian sentiments. The Met's decision to pivot to an exhibition focused on 'everyday' fashion could be seen as an attempt to present a more universally appealing and less controversial theme, potentially broadening its audience while avoiding further public relations challenges. The inclusion of iconic pieces like Brooke Shields's Calvin Klein jeans and Marc Jacobs's grunge collection connects the exhibition to significant moments in American fashion history, potentially drawing interest from a wider demographic beyond high-fashion enthusiasts. This shift also reflects a broader cultural conversation about the definition of 'high fashion' and its intersection with everyday wear.
What's Next?
The “extraORDINARY: Fashion and the Poetics of the Everyday” exhibition is scheduled to open on May 9, 2027, coinciding with the Met Gala, which typically sets its theme based on the Costume Institute's annual show. It remains to be seen how attendees will interpret the 'everyday' fashion theme for the gala, with some speculating whether guests will opt for jeans or other casual wear. Anna Wintour, global editorial director of Vogue and a Met board member, is expected to chair the 2027 fundraiser as usual, despite not being mentioned as an architect of the new exhibition. The public and fashion critics will be observing how this new, less provocative theme impacts the Met Gala's traditional spectacle and its ability to generate buzz compared to previous, more avant-garde exhibitions.
Beyond the Headlines
The Met's decision to replace the Galliano exhibition with one focused on 'everyday' fashion could signal a broader trend in cultural institutions to prioritize inclusivity and public sentiment over artistic controversy. This move might influence other museums and galleries to re-evaluate their curatorial choices, potentially leading to a more cautious approach when featuring artists or designers with contentious pasts. The exhibition's focus on transforming ordinary items into high fashion also raises questions about the evolving nature of luxury and design, suggesting a democratization of fashion where common garments can achieve artistic recognition. This could inspire designers to explore more accessible materials and concepts, blurring the lines between haute couture and ready-to-wear, and challenging traditional notions of what constitutes 'fashionable' or 'artistic' attire.
