What's Happening?
Spencer Kelly, a winemaker at Vice Versa in Napa Valley, is incorporating concrete 'Tulipes' into his winemaking process. These tulip-shaped concrete tanks are gaining popularity in wineries globally, including nearly 50 in California. Kelly explains
that the porous nature of concrete allows for a controlled amount of oxygen to interact with the wine during fermentation, which is a key differentiator from traditional stainless-steel tanks. This micro-oxygenation process, combined with the unique shape of the Tulipes, influences the aromatic and tannin profiles of the wine. The circular base and tapered sides of the Tulipes facilitate a thicker cap of skins at the surface, enabling precise control over the extraction rate from the grape skins. Kelly uses these vessels for single vineyard wines from To Kalon and Steltzner vineyards, as well as for components of his Napa Valley cuvée, 'Spinning Plates,' before oak aging. He emphasizes that the goal is not to declare one vessel superior but to match the appropriate vessel to specific grape blocks to achieve a balanced and flavorful wine.
Why It's Important?
The adoption of concrete Tulipes by winemakers like Spencer Kelly signifies an evolving trend in the U.S. wine industry, particularly in regions like Napa Valley. This shift highlights a pursuit of nuanced flavor profiles and textures that traditional stainless steel or oak barrels may not fully achieve. For consumers, this could mean a broader range of wine styles with distinct aromatic and tannin characteristics, moving beyond the often-dominant oak influences. For the U.S. wine industry, it represents an investment in innovative winemaking technology and a potential competitive edge in a global market. Wineries that successfully integrate these vessels could differentiate their products, attracting consumers seeking unique and refined wine experiences. The emphasis on 'matching a particular block to the appropriate vessel' also underscores a more precise and terroir-driven approach to winemaking, potentially elevating the quality and complexity of American wines.
What's Next?
The increasing use of concrete Tulipes suggests a continued exploration of alternative fermentation and aging vessels within the U.S. wine industry. More wineries are likely to experiment with these tanks, potentially leading to a wider availability of wines with distinct concrete-influenced characteristics. Winemakers will continue to refine their techniques, understanding how different grape varietals and vineyard blocks respond to this specific vessel. This trend could also spur further innovation in winemaking equipment, with manufacturers developing new materials or shapes to achieve desired wine profiles. As consumers become more aware of these winemaking nuances, there may be a growing demand for wines produced using such methods, influencing market trends and potentially leading to new classifications or labeling practices that highlight these production techniques.
Beyond the Headlines
The re-emergence of concrete in winemaking, particularly in its 'Tulipe' form, reflects a broader philosophical shift in the U.S. wine industry towards a balance between tradition and innovation. While concrete is an ancient material, its modern application in these uniquely shaped vessels represents a sophisticated approach to micro-oxygenation and extraction. This move away from solely relying on oak or stainless steel suggests a desire to allow the 'purity of fruit' and the 'vineyard to come through clearly,' as noted by other winemakers. It also touches upon the ethical dimension of winemaking, where the focus is on optimizing natural processes rather than imposing artificial flavors. This trend could foster a deeper appreciation for the subtle complexities of wine, encouraging consumers to explore wines that prioritize natural expression over heavily manipulated profiles, ultimately enriching the cultural landscape of American wine.
