What's Happening?
Ashley Scott Müller, a sculptor from Chicago residing in Berlin since 2014, has amassed one of the world's largest collections of Thierry Mugler designs, totaling around 800 pieces. Her collection, which began in 2013 with a 1990 suit, includes fitted
jackets, haute couture, jewelry, catwalk prototypes, and sketches. Müller's passion for Mugler's work stems from its intense construction, which she connects to her own sculptural practice. She developed a personal friendship with Thierry Mugler after meeting him in 2017, maintaining contact until his passing in January 2022. Mugler, whom she describes as a mentor, offered her advice on styling, beauty, and artistic intuition, encouraging her to embrace her 'best self' and 'ultimate goddess' persona. He also gifted her a significant piece from his collection—a hat from his 1995 couture show, which he personally handed to her in a supermarket bag.
Why It's Important?
Ashley Scott Müller's extensive collection and personal narrative highlight the enduring cultural and artistic impact of Thierry Mugler's designs. Her dedication to preserving and showcasing his work contributes significantly to the fashion world's understanding of Mugler's legacy, particularly his innovative construction and empowering vision for women. The collection serves as a valuable archive for fashion historians, designers, and enthusiasts, offering insights into the evolution of haute couture and its influence on contemporary style. Müller's story also underscores the personal connections that can form between artists and their admirers, demonstrating how creative works can inspire and shape individual lives. Her role as a collector and a personal friend of Mugler provides a unique perspective on the designer's creative process and his philosophy, enriching the broader discourse around fashion as an art form.
What's Next?
Müller continues to expand her collection, focusing on finding missing parts and completing full series from Mugler's various collections. She has recently built a dedicated storage space to house her growing archive. Her ongoing efforts ensure the preservation of these significant fashion pieces for future generations. Müller also expresses excitement about the current direction of the Mugler brand under Miguel Castro Freitas, indicating a continued engagement with the brand's evolution. Her insights into Berlin's art and fashion scene, including her recommendations for shops and galleries, suggest a continued role in cultural curation and commentary. The collection's growth and Müller's active involvement in the fashion community indicate that her work will continue to be a vital resource for understanding Thierry Mugler's enduring influence.
Beyond the Headlines
Müller's journey transcends mere collecting; it delves into the profound connection between art, identity, and personal empowerment. Her initial attraction to Mugler's designs, particularly the 1995 Cirque d’Hiver Couture collection, was driven by the representation of strong, humorous, playful, and sexy women in total control. This resonated with her desire to project confidence as an artist. The personal mentorship from Thierry Mugler, who encouraged her to follow her intuition and embrace her 'ultimate goddess' self, highlights the transformative power of fashion beyond aesthetics. It speaks to how clothing can be a tool for self-expression and a catalyst for personal growth. Her connection to Mugler's 'Été Africain' collections, which she feels are extensions of her soul, further emphasizes the cultural and emotional depth embedded in his designs, particularly for women of color. This narrative underscores fashion's capacity to inspire confidence and reflect diverse identities.
