Raclette, a dish centered around melted cheese, boasts a rich history deeply intertwined with the Alpine regions of Switzerland and France. What began as a simple, hearty meal for peasants and cow herders has evolved into a celebrated culinary experience enjoyed nationally and internationally. Its journey from humble origins, where cheese was softened by campfires, to its current status as a convivial dish often prepared with electric appliances,
reflects centuries of cultural and gastronomic development.
Ancient Origins and Early Mentions
The practice of melting cheese for consumption is not a recent innovation. Medieval texts from Swiss convents, dating as far back as 1291, contain mentions of dishes involving melted cheese. This indicates that the tradition of heating and consuming cheese in this manner has roots stretching back over 700 years. Initially, this melted cheese was a staple for peasants residing in the mountainous Alpine areas, specifically in the cantons of Valais and Fribourg in Switzerland, and Savoie and Haute-Savoie in France. These communities relied on readily available, calorie-rich foods, and cheese, often carried by cow herders, fit this need perfectly.
In the German-speaking parts of Switzerland, this melted cheese dish was known by names such as Bratchäs or Bratkäse, which translate to "roasted cheese." This nomenclature highlights the traditional method of preparation, where cheese was literally roasted or heated. The earliest attested instance of melting raclette-type cheese in front of a fire in Valais dates to 1574, further solidifying its long-standing presence in the region's culinary landscape. This historical evidence paints a picture of a practical and nourishing meal, born out of necessity and the resources available in the challenging mountain environment.
From Herders' Sustenance to National Dish
The traditional preparation method involved cow herders carrying cheese with them as they moved their livestock to and from mountain pastures. In the evenings, after a day of work, a piece of cheese would be placed near a campfire to soften. Once adequately melted, the softened cheese would be scraped onto bread, providing a warm and satisfying meal. This simple yet effective technique was central to the dish's early identity and sustained generations of Alpine workers.
The French term "raclette," which is derived from the French verb "racler" meaning "to scrape," became commonly used for this dish starting in 1875. This adoption of a specific term marked a significant step in the dish's formal recognition. Its promotion as a national dish of Valais occurred at the 1909 Cantonal Exhibition of Sion, signaling a growing regional pride and a desire to share this culinary heritage more broadly. This exhibition played a crucial role in elevating raclette from a local specialty to a symbol of Valaisan identity.
Gaining National and International Acclaim
Raclette's popularity continued to grow throughout the 20th century. A major turning point for its national and international recognition came with the 1964 National Exhibition. This event provided a platform for raclette to reach a wider audience, solidifying its status beyond its regional origins. The dish, once a simple meal for herders, began its ascent to becoming a beloved Swiss culinary icon.
Today, while the traditional method of heating half a cheese wheel by a fire and scraping off the melted part is still practiced, electric appliances have become a common and convenient alternative. These modern raclette grills allow for individual portions of cheese to be melted at the table, making it a highly interactive and social dining experience. Raclette is typically served with skin-on potatoes and mixed pickles, and often accompanied by Fendant wine or other warm beverages like black tea, which is believed to aid digestion. This evolution in preparation and presentation has allowed raclette to maintain its essence while adapting to contemporary dining preferences, ensuring its continued popularity as a convivial dish, especially during colder months and in association with mountain culture and winter sports.
The Protected Status of Raclette du Valais
The importance of raclette to Swiss culinary heritage is further underscored by the protected designation of origin (AOP) granted to "Raclette du Valais" in Switzerland in 2003. This AOP specifically limits the production of Raclette du Valais cheese to the canton of Valais and mandates precise specifications for its manufacture, including the use of raw milk. The protection initially extended to the terms "Raclette du Valais," "à la coupe" (cut), "à rebibes" (scraped), and even the term "raclette" itself.
However, this broad protection faced challenges. In 2007, following an appeal to the Federal Tribunal by manufacturers from other cantons producing significant quantities of raclette cheese, the protection for the sole term "raclette" was removed. The reasoning was that "raclette" primarily designates a culinary preparation—the dish itself—rather than exclusively referring to a specific cheese. Despite this, the terms "Raclette du Valais," "à la coupe," and "à rebibes" remain protected, ensuring the authenticity and regional specificity of the cheese used in the traditional Valaisan dish. This legal journey highlights the distinction between the cheese and the dish, while still safeguarding the heritage of the Valaisan product.
