The concept of a tanned complexion has undergone significant transformations throughout history, shifting from a mark of manual labor to a symbol of leisure and, more recently, a potential source of dependence. In Western European culture, pale skin was once a clear indicator of high status, signifying that an individual could afford to avoid outdoor work and dedicate resources to cultivating their appearance. A tan, conversely, suggested a life spent
in manual labor outdoors. This perception began to change dramatically in the 20th century, particularly with the advent of new technologies and cultural shifts that redefined what a tan represented.
The Rise of the Tanned Aesthetic
A pivotal moment in the cultural re-evaluation of tanning occurred in the 1920s, largely influenced by pioneering fashion designer Coco Chanel. She played a significant role in popularizing the idea of tanning, transforming its meaning. Under her influence, the sun began to represent pleasure, relaxation, and even wealth. This shift was further propelled by the post-Industrial Revolution era, which saw a decrease in outdoor manual labor and an increase in indoor occupations. With more people working indoors, a tan started to signify that an individual possessed the leisure time to bronze their skin and the financial means to travel to locations where such a complexion could be acquired. It also came to symbolize an enthusiasm for outdoor activities, physical fitness, and good health, cementing its place as a desirable aesthetic.
The Dawn of Sunless Tanning and Tanning Beds
The mid-20th century brought about new methods for achieving a tanned look without direct sun exposure. The first self-tanner, known as Tan-Man, was introduced in 1959. This innovation provided an alternative for those seeking a darker complexion without the sun's rays. The landscape of tanning changed even more profoundly with the introduction of UV tanning beds, which began appearing in the United States in 1978. These beds offered a controlled environment for tanning, further democratizing the ability to achieve a year-round bronzed look, regardless of climate or season. The convenience and accessibility of these methods contributed to a significant increase in tanning practices.
The Emergence of Tanning Dependence
While tanning became widely popular, its widespread adoption also led to the recognition of potential negative consequences, including the phenomenon of tanning dependence, sometimes referred to as tanorexia. This condition describes a physical or psychological reliance on sunbathing or the use of UV tanning beds to darken the skin's complexion. Compulsive tanning can even meet the criteria for a behavioral addiction. Medical evidence suggests a possible physiological basis for tanning dependence, involving endogenous opioids. Some research indicates that UV exposure may produce beta-endorphin in the epidermis, with conflicting evidence regarding its release into the bloodstream and subsequent pathway to the brain. A small study also found that the opioid antagonist naltrexone reduced the preference for UV tanning beds and, at higher doses, produced withdrawal symptoms in frequent tanners.
Understanding and Addressing Tanning Dependence
The finding that excessive tanning can lead to dependence is supported by observations from many dermatologists. These medical professionals report that despite advising patients against tanning beds due to melanoma risks, many patients continue the practice. A 2014 literature review highlighted that many individuals who tan excessively exhibit symptom criteria for substance abuse, as defined by psychiatry. Extreme cases of tanning dependence may also indicate body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), a mental disorder characterized by an obsessive and compulsive preoccupation with perceived flaws in one's physique or self-image. Similar to anorexia, individuals with BDD may have a distorted body image, believing their skin is much lighter than it actually is, even when quite dark-skinned. While neither tanning dependence nor tanorexia is explicitly covered in the latest edition of the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, a 2005 article in The Archives of Dermatology argued for viewing UV light tanning dependence as a type of substance abuse disorder. Effective treatments for tanning dependence can include cognitive behavioral therapy, antidepressant medications, hypnosis, and specialized addiction treatment centers, particularly for those with extreme cases.
