Why Dhaka Muslin Was Once Worth More Than Gold

Muslin, a fine plain-weave cotton fabric, boasts a rich history stretching back centuries, particularly in the Bengal region of the Indian subcontinent. Renowned for its lightness and transparency, Dhaka muslin, in particular, was highly prized in both Mughal and European markets. Its journey from an ancient textile to a fabric whose production techniques were nearly lost, and now to a subject of dedicated revival efforts, highlights its enduring

cultural and economic significance. This narrative traces muslin's historical roots, its peak during the Mughal era, its decline under colonial rule, and the contemporary initiatives aimed at bringing this legendary fabric back to prominence.

Ancient Roots and Early Admiration

Muslin's presence in Bengal dates back to antiquity, with mentions in ancient texts and archaeological findings. Megasthenes, a Greek envoy in the 4th century BC, wrote about muslin, and figurines from the 2nd century BC found at Chandraketugarh are believed to be wearing this fabric. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, written between 40 and 70 AD, documents Arab and Greek merchants trading Indian textiles, including muslin, with Red Sea ports. The 10th-century Charyapada, written on palm leaves, even provides a detailed description of the muslin weaving process, indicating its long-standing tradition.

Early travelers and chroniclers were consistently astonished by the fabric's fineness. The Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang, in the 7th century CE, described Bengali muslin as being "like the light vapours of dawn." A 9th-century Persian geographer noted Indian cotton so fine that "a dress made of it may be passed through a signet-ring." During the medieval period, East Bengal, particularly Dhaka and Sonargaon, became famous for producing the finest plain-weave cottons. As Dhaka rose to become the capital of Mughal Bengal, its muslin became more accessible to international markets, including Central Asia, where fine muslin was known as "Daka."

The Golden Age of Dhaka Muslin

Under the Delhi Sultans and especially the Mughal emperors, Dhaka muslin reached its zenith. During Emperor Akbar's court in the late 16th century, a special variety called mulmul khas was woven exclusively for royalty. Mughal sources and travelers frequently recounted the fabric's legendary qualities. Emperor Jahangir's court poet, Abd al-Rahim, reportedly said the fabric seemed to "dance with the slightest breeze." Mughal chronicles, such as the Ain-i-Akbari, listed dozens of Dhaka muslin varieties, often given poetic names like abrawān ("flowing water") and shabnam ("evening dew").

European travelers in the 16th to 18th centuries also expressed great admiration. Ralph Fitch, an Englishman, wrote in 1586 about Sonargaon's cloth being "the best and finest cloth made of cotton that is in all India." By the 18th century, Dhaka muslin was coveted by European aristocracy, with figures like Marie Antoinette and Jane Austen appreciating its quality. The fabric's ultra-fine yarns, often around 300-count cotton spun from the endemic phuti karpas plant, resulted in thread counts of 800–1,200 warp threads per inch, far exceeding typical muslins. This extreme fineness led to legends such as a whole muslin sheet being pulled through a ring, and its sheer transparency even caused scandal in Victorian society.

Decline and Modern Revival Efforts

The decline of Dhaka muslin began in the late 18th century with the rise of British colonial dominance. After 1757, the East India Company implemented policies that severely undermined Bengal's handloom industry. High tariffs were imposed on Bengali textiles entering England, while cheap, machine-made Lancashire cottons flooded Bengali markets. This economic pressure, combined with devastating famines in 1770 and the early 19th century, led to widespread starvation among weavers, many of whom abandoned their craft. The unique phuti karpas cotton variety, essential for Dhaka muslin, virtually disappeared by the mid-19th century.

By 1800, British observers had already declared Dhaka muslin extinct. While anecdotes of brutality against weavers circulated, the primary causes were economic: the introduction of mechanized production, punitive duties, and the neglect of rural artisans. However, in recent decades, Bangladesh has embarked on a significant effort to revive this lost heritage. In 2014, Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina launched a "Muslin Revival" project. Botanists have since rediscovered cotton plants resembling phuti karpas in Kapasia, and grassroots weavers are experimenting with hand-spinning these fibers. The Bangladesh Handloom Board is implementing projects to restore muslin yarn manufacturing technology and cloth, with Dhakai Muslin being recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) product in 2020. These efforts, including the establishment of the Dhakai Muslin House and the Dhaka Muslin Commercialization project, represent a "glimmer of hope" for the return of this legendary "woven wind" to the looms of Dhaka.