Pomade is a versatile hair styling product primarily designed to achieve slick and tight hairstyles. Its effectiveness stems from its unique composition, which allows it to hold hair in place without drying, offering a lasting, often shiny, appearance. However, not all pomades are created equal. The market today offers a diverse range of formulations, broadly categorized into traditional oil-based and newer water-based and gel pomades, each with distinct
characteristics regarding hold, finish, and ease of removal.
Traditional Oil-Based Pomades
Traditional oil-based pomades are the classic choice for those seeking strong hold and a slick look. Historically, these products were made from ingredients like bear fat or lard, but modern oil-based pomades extensively use lanolin, beeswax, and petroleum jelly. These ingredients contribute to the product's greasy or waxy texture and its ability to maintain sculpted hairstyles like the pompadour.Oil-based pomades are typically subdivided into three groups based on their hold: heavy, medium, and light. Heavier pomades generally contain a higher wax content, which provides a stronger hold and better shape retention throughout the day. A higher wax content usually results in a lower shine finish. Conversely, light hold pomades, sometimes known as brilliantines, have a higher oil content. This results in a more shiny, "wet look" but offers a lower degree of hold. A notable characteristic of oil-based pomades is their persistence; they do not dry out and often require several washes for complete removal, with grease-cutting shampoos and deep-cleansing conditioners often recommended to aid the process. Murray's Pomade, an iconic oil-based product introduced in 1925, is famously difficult to wash out, a trait that has become part of its identity.
Modern Water-Based and Gel Pomades
The development of water-based and gel pomades represents a significant advancement in hair styling technology, primarily addressing the washability concerns associated with traditional oil-based products. These newer formulations offer similar styling benefits but are much easier to remove from the hair, typically requiring only a single wash.Water-based pomades are further divided into gel-based pomades (Orthodox) and water-based (Unorthodox) pomades. Gel pomades come in various degrees of hold, with firm hold versions drying much stiffer. They are highly effective at holding a particular style in place but are generally less malleable once set. However, they can be restyled during the day by simply wetting the hair. These products often contain hardening agents such as polyvinyl pyrolidone. Unorthodox water-based pomades are designed to mimic the malleable qualities of oil-based pomades, allowing for restyling throughout the day, while still offering the convenience of easy washability. This blend of flexibility and ease of removal makes them a popular choice for those who desire the classic pomade look without the commitment of a difficult wash-out.
