Necklaces have played a significant role in East Asian cultures, serving as both decorative items and symbols of cultural integration. This article examines the evolution of necklaces in East Asia, with a particular focus on China, highlighting their historical significance and cultural impact.
The Yingluo: A Symbol of Cultural Exchange
The yingluo, a ring-like neck ornament or fashionable necklace, originated as a Buddhist ornament depicted in Buddhist arts in China. Its roots trace back to
ancient India, where its earlier prototype, the Indian ornament keyūra, was introduced to China along with Buddhism. The depictions of yingluo in China, such as those found in Dunhuang, evolved in shape and styles, showcasing the cultural integration of foreign (non-Chinese) culture and the native Chinese culture due to the special characteristics of its geography.
By the Tang dynasty, the yingluo had evolved from an ornament in Buddhist arts to an actual necklace, becoming a classical form of necklace in Chinese society throughout centuries. It continues to be worn in present-day China, especially as a common hanfu accessory used by Hanfu enthusiasts since the Hanfu Movement.
The Chaozhu: A Courtly Tradition
In Qing dynasty China, a court necklace called chaozhu was worn by the Qing dynasty emperors and other members of the imperial family. The court necklace originated from a Buddhist rosary sent in 1643 by the Dalai Lama to the first emperor of the Qing dynasty. Composed of 108 small beads, with 4 large beads of contrasting stones to symbolize the 4 seasons, the chaozhu was placed between groups of 27 beads.
The chaozhu was not only a decorative item but also practical, as it could be used for mathematical calculations in the absence of an abacus. This dual function highlights the blend of aesthetic and utilitarian values in Chinese jewelry traditions.
Modern-Day Significance
Necklaces continue to hold cultural significance in China, with traditional designs being adapted for contemporary fashion. The longevity lock pendant, known as changmingsuo, is an important form of amulet for children in Chinese culture, believed to protect them from evil spirits and bad luck by locking the wearer's soul and life inside the lock.
Made with precious materials such as gold, silver, and jade, the changmingsuo often has auspicious words carved on it, reflecting the enduring belief in the protective power of jewelry. As such, necklaces remain a vital part of cultural expression and identity in East Asia.
