The corset, a support garment designed to shape the torso, has a rich and varied history in European fashion, spanning from the 17th century to the early 20th century. Known by various names such as "bodies" or "stays" depending on the era, this undergarment was essential for achieving the desired silhouette of the time. Its construction traditionally involved fabric and boning, with a stiff front panel called a busk and lacing for tightening. The evolution
of the corset reflects changing beauty standards, technological advancements, and societal shifts, making it a fascinating subject in the history of dress.
Early Forms and Materials
In the 16th and 17th centuries, what would later be known as the corset was referred to as "a pair of bodies." These early garments were typically simple bodices, stiffened with boning made from materials like reed or whalebone. A busk, often crafted from wood, horn, whalebone, metal, or ivory, was inserted into the front to provide rigid support and promote an upright posture. Initially, these garments were reserved for the aristocracy, often laced in the back. The term "pair of bodies" eventually gave way to "stays," which were commonly used throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, shaping the upper torso into a conical or cylindrical form. By the 17th century, tabs, known as "fingers," were added at the waist.
The 18th century saw further evolution in stays, with an increased use of whalebone for boning. The shape also changed, becoming low and wide in the front while potentially reaching as high as the upper shoulder in the back. These stays could be strapless or feature shoulder straps, typically attached in the back and tied at the front. Their primary purpose was to support the bust, create the fashionable conical torso shape, and draw the shoulders back. Eyelets during this period were reinforced with stitches and staggered, allowing for spiral lacing. A variant called "jumps" also existed, which were looser, unboned, and sometimes included attached sleeves, resembling a jacket. These were often quilted linen, laced in the front, and intended for informal occasions, contrasting with the more structured stays worn for court dress.
The 19th Century: Innovation and the "Wasp Waist"
The early 19th century marked a significant shift, as stays began to be called corsets with the addition of gussets to accommodate the bust. These new corsets extended to the hip, replacing the lower tabs with hip gussets and featuring less boning. By the 1820s, as fashion trends brought the waistline back to a more natural position, corsets returned to prominence, often incorporating padding for a waist-slimming effect and more extensive boning. This era also saw corsets become one of the first mass-produced garments for women, with some women making their own while others purchased them.
The 1840s brought even heavier boning, and shoulder straps were eliminated. By 1850, steel boning gained popularity. A crucial innovation was the advent of metal eyelets in 1827, which, along with steel boning and busks, enabled wearers to lace their corsets much tighter without damaging the garment. This development facilitated the creation of the "wasp-waisted" silhouette that is now strongly associated with the corset. The position of eyelets changed to be opposite one another at the back, and the front was secured with a metal busk. The mid-19th century saw shorter corsets due to the popularity of the hoop skirt or crinoline. However, after the 1860s, as crinolines fell out of style, corsets lengthened to shape the abdomen, complementing the new princess or cuirass styles. The spoon busk, developed in the 1870s, further refined the shape, contouring the stomach and distributing pressure. Corsets of this period were often adorned with contrasting boning colors and lace trims.
Decline and Modern Echoes
By the beginning of the 20th century, changing gender roles, which allowed women greater activity outside the home, coupled with the onset of World War I and II and associated material shortages, led to the corset being largely abandoned by mainstream fashion. The development of rubberized elastic materials in 1911 also contributed to the girdle replacing the corset. While the traditional corset faded from daily wear, its influence can still be seen in modern fashion and specialized garments. Today, higher quality modern corsets often utilize spring and/or spiral steel boning or synthetic whalebone, while plastic is common in fashion corsets. The garment's journey from a rigid aristocratic undergarment to a mass-produced item and eventually a historical artifact highlights its significant role in shaping both bodies and fashion throughout several centuries.
