The Heartbeat of the Hills
Nestled in the lush West Jaintia Hills, the town of Jowai is the cultural heart of the Pnar people. For much of the year, it’s a picturesque town, a gateway to the region's natural wonders. But every July, as the monsoon reaches its peak, Jowai transforms.
The air, thick with the scent of rain-soaked earth, begins to thrum with the beats of drums and the sound of pipes. This is the signal that Behdienkhlam has arrived. The festival is a cornerstone of the indigenous Niamtre faith and serves as a powerful expression of the community's relationship with nature and the divine.
An Invocation Against Pestilence
The name 'Behdienkhlam' literally translates to 'chasing away the plague' or 'driving away the demon of cholera'. Its origins are rooted in a historical need to ward off disease, a very real threat during the intense monsoon season when waterborne illnesses can spread rapidly. The festival is a four-day-long spiritual and physical cleansing. It begins with solemn rites performed by the 'Daloi,' or chief religious figure, but quickly grows into a town-wide participatory event. Young men go from house to house, beating the roofs with bamboo poles in a symbolic gesture to drive away any lingering evil spirits or sickness from every home.
Rituals in the Rain
The festival is a sensory spectacle. A central ritual involves the felling of tall, straight trees, which are brought into the town's neighbourhoods. These become focal points for dance and celebration. The climax unfolds at Aitnar, a sacred pool in Jowai. Here, two groups of men engage in a tussle over a large wooden log, a game called 'Iatan-Bhang'. Participants smear mud on one another, a playful but significant act of connecting with the earth. Women, while not part of the dancing, play a crucial role by preparing sacrificial food for the spirits of their ancestors, ensuring the entire community is spiritually fortified. The presence of rain on the festival's final day is considered a powerful blessing, an auspicious sign from the heavens.
A Symphony of Wood, Water, and Will
Two of the most captivating events happen on the final day. The first is the procession of the 'rots'—towering, intricately decorated bamboo structures. Carried on the shoulders of dozens of men, these 'rots' often depict social commentary or local stories and are eventually immersed in the waters of Aitnar. The second is a game called 'Dad-lawakor,' a unique form of football played with a small wooden ball. The match is played between teams representing the north and south of the town. Local belief holds that the winning side’s region will be blessed with a more bountiful harvest in the coming year, adding a layer of competitive excitement to the spiritual proceedings.
More Than Just a Festival
Behdienkhlam is more than the sum of its rituals; it is the social glue that binds the community. It functions as a homecoming, with Pnar people who have moved away returning to their ancestral land to participate. It's a time for rekindling connections, both with family and with the divine. The festival strengthens social bonds and ensures that ancient traditions are passed down to the younger generation, who participate with infectious enthusiasm. It reflects a profound ecological wisdom, where cleaning drains and clearing pathways is as much a sacred act as it is a practical one to manage the monsoon's deluge. It's a living example of how a community has learned to coexist with, and even celebrate, one of the world's most intense climates.
