Two Legacies, One Weekend Plan
West Bengal's countryside is dotted with historical treasures, but few are as captivating as Bishnupur, the land of terracotta temples, and Murshidabad, the last capital of the independent Nawabs. Both are accessible from Kolkata for a weekend trip, yet
they offer vastly different experiences. Bishnupur, in the Bankura district, tells the story of the artistic Malla kings, while Murshidabad, on the banks of the Bhagirathi, echoes with tales of Nawabi grandeur and political intrigue. Planning a trip to either requires a sense of what you want to explore: ancient Hindu artistry or the opulent history of Bengal's former rulers.
Bishnupur: The Terracotta Kingdom
Famous for its unique terracotta temples built by the Malla dynasty, Bishnupur is a testament to a flourishing artistic period from the 17th and 18th centuries. Beyond its temples, the town is renowned for its classical music gharana, Baluchari sarees depicting mythological scenes, and distinctive terracotta crafts, including the iconic Bankura horse. A weekend here is an immersion in classical Bengali culture and craftsmanship, where every brick and carving has a story to tell.
Getting to Bishnupur and Around
The most convenient way to travel from Kolkata is by train. Several express trains, such as the Rupashi Bangla Express from Santragachi (SRC) or the Aranyak Express from Shalimar (SHM), connect to Bishnupur (VSU) in about three to four hours. By road, the journey is approximately 140 km and can take four to five hours. Once there, the best way to navigate the temple town is by hiring a local toto (e-rickshaw) for the day. The drivers are often well-versed in the history and can guide you through the main sites. For accommodation, options range from the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation's tourist lodge to various private hotels and resorts catering to different budgets.
Must-See Sights in Bishnupur
Your exploration should begin with the Rasmancha, a unique pyramidal structure where deities were displayed during the Ras festival. Other key temples include the Jorbangla Temple, known for its classic chala architecture, the Pancha Ratna style Shyam Rai Temple with its intricate terracotta panels depicting scenes from Krishna's life, and the Madan Mohan Temple, built by King Durjan Singha. Don't miss the Dalmadal Cannon, a large wrought-iron cannon, and spend some time shopping for Baluchari sarees and terracotta handicrafts.
Murshidabad: Echoes of the Nawabs
A trip to Murshidabad is a journey back to the era of the Nawabs of Bengal, a time of immense wealth, architectural splendor, and the dramatic events that led to British dominion in India. Located about 200 km from Kolkata, this city on the Bhagirathi river was the capital of Bengal before Kolkata. Its sprawling palaces, mosques, and tombs tell a vivid story of a bygone era of glory and betrayal. A two-day trip is ideal for exploring the main attractions spread across the city and its surroundings.
Reaching Murshidabad and Staying Over
Train travel is the most popular option. The Hazarduari Express and Bhagirathi Express from Sealdah (SDAH) are excellent choices, taking around four to five hours to reach Murshidabad (MBB) or the main nearby station, Berhampore Court (BPC). By road, the journey via NH-12 takes about five to six hours. For accommodation, Berhampore offers a wider range of hotels, but staying in a heritage property like the Cossimbazar Palace of the Roys or Bari Kothi can elevate the experience. Like Bishnupur, totos are the primary mode for local sightseeing.
Murshidabad's Grand Tour
The centerpiece of Murshidabad is the magnificent Hazarduari Palace, or the 'Palace with a Thousand Doors', which now houses a museum with an extensive collection of Nawabi-era artifacts. Directly opposite stands the Nizamat Imambara, the largest in Bengal. Other essential visits include the Katra Masjid, which contains the tomb of Murshid Quli Khan, the Jahan Kosha Cannon, the serene gardens of Khoshbagh (the final resting place of Siraj-ud-Daulah, accessible by a short boat ride), and the beautiful Kathgola Palace. Remember that Hazarduari Palace is closed on Fridays.
