The Undisputed King: Phuchka
No Durga Puja food trail can begin without a plate of phuchka. Known elsewhere as pani puri or golgappa, Kolkata's version has its own distinct charm. These small, hollow, crispy puris are filled with a spicy mash of potatoes and chickpeas, then dunked
in tangy tamarind water. You'll find phuchka-wallahs in every corner, surrounded by eager crowds. It's the perfect, explosive bite to awaken your senses and prepare you for the night of feasting ahead. For many, it's the official snack of pandal-hopping.
The On-the-Go Fuel: Kathi Rolls
When hunger truly strikes, the Kathi Roll is the answer. An invention of Kolkata, this is the ideal portable meal for a night on your feet. A flaky, ghee-laden paratha is wrapped around a delicious filling—traditionally spiced chicken or mutton kebabs, but egg and vegetable versions are just as popular—along with sliced onions and zesty sauces. It’s a substantial snack, almost a meal in itself, perfect for eating while walking to the next pandal or even while standing in a queue. Stalls near major pandals like those on Park Street or Rashbehari Avenue do a roaring trade well into the early hours.
The Hearty Classic: Ghugni
For something warm, comforting, and quintessentially Bengali, look for a stall selling ghugni. This flavourful curry is made from dried yellow or white peas, slow-cooked with spices until tender. It's typically topped with a sprinkle of chopped raw onions, green chillies, and sometimes a dash of tamarind chutney or a squeeze of lime. Served hot in a small bowl, ghugni is a beloved street food snack that offers a hearty and satisfying break from fried foods, connecting you to the home-style flavours of Bengal.
The Fried Indulgence: Chops and Cutlets
Durga Puja is a time for indulgence, and nothing says indulgence quite like Kolkata's array of deep-fried snacks, collectively known as 'telebhaja'. These include everything from vegetable chops (croquettes made with beetroot and carrots) and aloo chops (spiced potato fritters) to more substantial offerings like fish fry or mutton chops. These items are typically coated in breadcrumbs or a gram flour batter and fried to golden perfection, served with a side of pungent kasundi (Bengali mustard sauce). Stalls selling these pop up everywhere, offering a crispy, savoury bite that's hard to resist.
The Festive Feast: Kolkata Biryani
While many stick to snacks, others seek a more complete meal to power through the night, and for that, there is biryani. Kolkata-style biryani is unique, distinguished by the presence of a large, soft, flavour-soaked potato alongside the tender meat and fragrant rice. Flavoured with kewra essence and a milder blend of spices, it’s less fiery than other regional biryanis but deeply aromatic. Many iconic restaurants in the Park Circus area and temporary stalls near large pandals serve this festive staple deep into the night.
The Sweet Finale: Mishti
No Bengali celebration is complete without sweets, or mishti. After a night of savoury delights, a sweet ending is essential. Sweet shops work overtime during Puja, churning out favourites like Rosogolla (cottage cheese balls in sugar syrup), Sandesh (a delicate sweet made from fresh chenna), and Mishti Doi (sweetened yogurt). Whether you grab one from a famous sweet shop or a temporary stall, enjoying a piece of mishti is the perfect way to conclude your culinary journey before heading home.
