Start with a Clean Canvas
For any makeup look to last and build beautifully, you must start with a good base. For your eyes, this means ensuring your lids and lashes are clean and free of any leftover makeup or oils. A gentle eye makeup remover can clear away debris without damaging
your delicate lashes. For daytime, a simple, neutral cream eyeshadow can create a perfect foundation for your evening additions. Cream formulas are highly buildable and easy to work with, allowing you to layer more dramatic shades later without causing patchiness. A light coat of a lengthening mascara will define your eyes for daytime without being over the top.
Prime Your Lashes for Performance
Just like a primer for your face, an eyelash primer is a game-changer for both volume and longevity. These conditioning formulas create a smooth, even base for your mascara to grip onto. This not only amplifies the volumizing and lengthening effects of your mascara but also helps prevent clumping and flaking as you layer products later in the day. Most primers are white but dry down to a translucent film. Apply one even coat from root to tip and, while it’s still slightly tacky, move on to your first layer of mascara.
Master the First Coat
The technique you use for your first coat of mascara sets the stage for volume. First, always curl your lashes before applying any product. Then, wipe any excess mascara off the wand on the rim of the tube to prevent clumps. Place the wand at the very base of your lashes and gently wiggle it back and forth. This side-to-side motion helps to build volume right at the root, making your entire lash line appear thicker. After the wiggle, sweep the wand upwards through the tips of your lashes to coat them evenly.
Transition to Night: Deepen the Drama
When evening approaches, it's time to amplify your look. The easiest way to add drama is by darkening your lash line. This is where tightlining comes in. Tightlining involves applying a black eyeliner pencil or gel to your upper waterline—the strip of skin just beneath your upper lashes. This technique fills in the gaps between your lashes, creating the illusion of a much fuller, darker lash base without taking up lid space. This single step makes your eyes pop and provides a rich backdrop that makes your volumized lashes look even more impressive.
The Art of Layering Mascara
Building volume is all about layering correctly. The key is to add your second and third coats of mascara while the previous layer is still slightly wet. Applying fresh mascara over a completely dry coat is what causes that dreaded clumpy, spidery effect. Focus the application on the centre of your lashes to build the most volume there, which creates a wide-eyed effect. Use the same 'wiggle and sweep' technique, ensuring you are coating the lashes from root to tip. For extra fluffiness, you can even dust a tiny amount of translucent powder on your lashes between coats, which gives the next layer of mascara more to grab onto.
Optional Final Flourish: False Lashes
For the ultimate nighttime transformation, nothing beats a pair of false eyelashes. You don't need a full, heavy strip. Instead, consider individual lashes or small clusters, which you can use to customise your look. Focus on applying them to the outer corners of your eyes to create a lifted, cat-eye effect and add density where you need it most. This adds professional-level drama and volume that mascara alone often can't achieve. Applying a final coat of mascara after the lash glue has dried will help blend your natural lashes seamlessly with the falsies.
