The Original Road Network
Before modern roads, Greece was connected by a vast network of stone-paved paths known as 'kalderimia'. These were not leisure trails but essential arteries of life, engineered for mules and foot traffic, linking remote villages, monasteries, and agricultural
lands. Often built with remarkable skill, these paths feature stone retaining walls and steps on steep inclines to prevent erosion and ease the journey for laden animals. They represent a practical and enduring form of infrastructure that shaped how communities interacted for centuries. While many have been lost to modern development, a growing movement of local volunteers and cultural organisations is working to clear, maintain, and waymark these historic routes, opening them up for a new generation of walkers.
Arcadia: The Mythical Menalon Trail
In the heart of the Peloponnese peninsula lies Arcadia, a region synonymous with pastoral beauty and ancient myths—it was said to be the home of Pan, the god of the wild. Here, the 75-kilometre Menalon Trail offers a journey through this storied landscape. The path, the first in Greece to receive 'Leading Quality Trail' certification from the European Ramblers Association, connects a series of historic mountain villages like Stemnitsa and Dimitsana. The route follows old mule tracks that have been used since at least the 16th century, winding through the dramatic Lousios River gorge. Hikers pass cliff-side monasteries like Prodromos and the ruins of the Old Philosophou Monastery, a 'secret school' during Ottoman rule. The trail is more than a walk; it’s an immersion in a landscape where mythology and history converge, passing by old water mills that produced gunpowder for the Greek Revolution.
Corfu: Stitching an Island Together
On the Ionian island of Corfu, the Corfu Trail offers a different kind of historical experience. Conceived in 2001, this 180-220 km route wasn't a single ancient road but a careful stitching together of existing mule tracks, shepherds’ paths, and forgotten footways to create a continuous path from the island's southern tip to its northernmost point. The trail deliberately winds away from coastal resorts and into the island's diverse interior, showcasing a side of Corfu many visitors miss. Walkers traverse olive groves, ascend to the summit of Mount Pantokrator for panoramic views, and explore Old Perithia, the island's oldest village. The path links Byzantine and Venetian monuments, quiet monasteries, and ascends and descends on cobbled 'kalderimi' that once formed the primary way to travel between villages.
Crete and the Cyclades: Paths of Rebels and Shepherds
The islands are threaded with ancient paths, each with its own story. In Crete, the famous Samaria Gorge trail follows a riverbed that served as a refuge for Cretan rebels during the Ottoman occupation. Its narrowest point, the 'Iron Gates', created a natural fortress. Elsewhere in the Cyclades, on islands like Sifnos, Naxos, and Andros, well-preserved kalderimia form the backbone of modern hiking networks. These routes connect villages to remote chapels and beaches, following the same stones that farmers and priests walked upon for centuries. Hiking here feels like time travel, a step-by-step discovery of an island's secrets, with the ever-present Aegean Sea as a constant companion.
