The Challenge: Two Cities, Two Festivals
Kolkata during Durga Puja and Varanasi during Dev Deepawali represent the peak of festive intensity in India. In Kolkata, the city transforms into a sprawling, open-air art gallery, with millions navigating streets to see elaborate pandals. This leads
to significant traffic restrictions and a reliance on public transport. In Varanasi, the challenge is concentration; hundreds of thousands of people pack into the narrow lanes and 84 ghats along the Ganga for Dev Deepawali, creating some of the most dense crowd conditions in the country. Vehicle traffic near the ghats often halts completely by early afternoon. Both festivals require a specific mindset and a solid plan to be enjoyed fully, moving beyond mere survival to genuine immersion.
Lesson 1: Book Everything Months in Advance
The single most critical piece of advice from seasoned travellers is to book early. For both Durga Puja and Dev Deepawali, flights, trains, and hotels are often fully booked weeks, if not months, ahead of the festival dates. Waiting for the last minute not only means facing exorbitant prices—hotel rates can easily double—but also risking not finding any suitable accommodation at all. Experts suggest booking travel and lodging at least two to four months in advance to secure reasonable rates and a good location, which is crucial for managing your daily itinerary.
Lesson 2: Your Location is Your Strategy
In both cities, where you stay fundamentally shapes your experience. In Kolkata, the pandals are spread across North, Central, and South Kolkata, each with a different character. Choosing a hotel near a metro station is a strategic advantage, as the metro remains the most reliable way to traverse the city when roads are gridlocked. In Varanasi, staying near the ghats offers convenience but comes at a premium and with maximum noise. A savvy alternative is staying slightly further away, such as in the Lanka or Assi Ghat areas, which are more affordable and can serve as a quieter base from which to walk to the main events. Proximity to the river is key, as boats become a primary mode of transport and viewing.
Lesson 3: Master Movement and Embrace Walking
During peak festival days, normal transportation collapses. In Kolkata, many roads become pedestrian-only zones. While app-based cabs are an option, expect surge pricing and long delays. The most effective strategy is a combination of using the metro for long distances and then walking extensively within pandal clusters. Comfortable footwear is non-negotiable. Similarly, in Varanasi, the narrow lanes, or 'galis', are best navigated on foot. To see the illuminated ghats during Dev Deepawali, a boat ride is the premier viewing option, offering a panoramic perspective without being crushed in the crowds on the steps. These boat rides must be booked in advance. For both cities, having a pre-downloaded offline map is essential, as mobile networks can become congested.
Lesson 4: Plan Your Day, But Don't Over-Schedule
Trying to see everything is a recipe for exhaustion. In Kolkata, experienced visitors suggest creating a shortlist of 8-10 priority pandals, grouped by neighborhood, rather than attempting to crisscross the entire city. Visiting popular pandals in the morning (between 10 AM and 1 PM) can help you avoid the crushing evening crowds. For Dev Deepawali in Varanasi, timing is everything. To secure a good spot on the ghats for the main evening aarti, you may need to arrive as early as 3:30 or 4:00 PM and wait for hours. A strategic approach is to enjoy the atmosphere but plan a clear exit route before the mass dispersal begins around 8:00 PM. In both cities, the mantra is 'less is more'.
Lesson 5: Prioritise Safety and Practicality
The sheer density of people requires a focus on safety. Carry minimal valuables to reduce the risk of pickpocketing. Stay hydrated, especially given the post-monsoon humidity in Kolkata and the long hours of waiting in Varanasi. It's also wise to pack a small medical kit with basics like bandages and pain relievers. For families, establishing a clear meeting point in case of separation is crucial. While the atmosphere is generally safe and celebratory, being prepared for the physical challenges of navigating crowds will ensure your trip is memorable for the right reasons.
