What is Behdienkhlam?
At its heart, Behdienkhlam is a cultural and religious festival celebrated annually by the Pnar people, who follow the indigenous Niamtre faith in the Jaintia Hills. The name itself tells the story: 'Beh Dien' means to chase away with sticks, and 'Khlam'
means plague or pestilence. Literally, it's the festival of 'chasing away the demon of cholera'. Celebrated every July after the sowing season, it's a powerful invocation for a bountiful harvest, good health, and the symbolic cleansing of the community from disease and negative spirits. While it's observed across the Jaintia Hills, the grandest and most spectacular celebration takes place in the town of Jowai, the district headquarters.
The Rituals: A Symphony of Faith and Action
The four-day festival is a non-stop series of intricate rituals. It begins with 'Knia Pyrthat', a sacrifice to appease the gods. Following this, young men move through the town with long bamboo poles, beating the roofs of every house in a symbolic gesture to drive away sickness and evil. Women play a crucial, though separate, role by preparing sacrificial food for the ancestors. Another significant ritual is 'Cher iung blai', where men enter a specially built thatched hut and symbolically slay demons with spears. The festival is a full-bodied sensory experience, with the air filled with the sounds of pipes and drums as participants dance with infectious energy.
The Spectacle of the 'Rots'
The visual centrepiece of Behdienkhlam is the procession of the 'rots'. These are towering, elaborately decorated structures, sometimes reaching heights of 30 to 40 feet. Crafted from bamboo and decorated with colourful paper, they are akin to the rathas seen in other parts of India. Each locality, or 'dong', creates its own rot, often using them to comment on current events or social issues, blending ancient tradition with modern relevance. On the final day, these massive structures are carried by dozens of men through the streets to a sacred pool called Aitnar for an immersion ceremony, symbolizing the final banishment of evil.
Why the Monsoon is the Main Event
While most travel guides might advise avoiding Meghalaya during its intense monsoon, for Behdienkhlam, the rain is not a hindrance—it's a blessing. The festival is intrinsically tied to the agricultural cycle and prayers for a good harvest. The rain is seen as a sign of divine approval. The culminating events take place in a muddy trench and the sacred Aitnar pool, where participants joyfully smear mud on each other. This embrace of the rain and earth underscores the festival's deep connection to nature and its role in ensuring the community's prosperity. It transforms the landscape into a living, breathing part of the celebration.
The Final Game: A Spiritual Showdown
The festival concludes with 'Dad-lawakor', a unique game that resembles a chaotic, spiritual version of football. Played with a wooden ball, it pits teams from the northern and southern parts of Jowai against each other. According to belief, the team that scores the first goal ensures a bumper harvest for their region in the coming year. It’s a fiercely contested but joyous event that encapsulates the community spirit and shared hopes of the Pnar people, ending the four days of intense ritual on a high note of competitive fun.
Tips for Travellers
If you plan to witness Behdienkhlam, which in 2026 runs from July 11th to 14th, be prepared for an immersive experience. Jowai is about 65 km from Shillong, a journey of about 2-3 hours. Accommodation in Jowai is limited, so booking well in advance or staying in Shillong and making a day trip is advisable. Pack for heavy rain: waterproof jackets, sturdy shoes, and dry bags are essential. While photography is generally welcome, always be respectful, especially during religious rites. Hiring a local guide can greatly enhance the experience by providing context to the rituals you'll be witnessing. Finally, carry enough cash, as ATMs can be unreliable during the festival rush.
