A Thanksgiving Festival for a Goddess
At its heart, Bonalu is a folk festival dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mahakali. The name itself comes from 'Bonam', the Telugu word for a meal or feast, which is precisely what the festival is about: a grand offering of thanks. Celebrated annually during
the monsoon month of Ashada Masam (typically July and August), it’s a tradition that originated in the 19th century after a devastating plague. Military troops stationed in Ujjain prayed to Mahakali, vowing to build a temple for her if the plague ended. When the city was saved, they fulfilled their promise, and the tradition of offering thanks has continued ever since, transforming into the city-wide spectacle it is today. In 2014, it was officially declared a state festival of Telangana, cementing its importance to the region's cultural identity.
The Sights and Sounds of Devotion
Experiencing Bonalu is a feast for the senses. The core ritual involves women, dressed in traditional silk sarees, carrying ornate brass or earthen pots on their heads. These pots, called Bonam, are filled with rice cooked with milk and jaggery, decorated with neem leaves, and topped with a lamp. They walk in processions to various Mahakali temples, often accompanied by the thunderous beat of drums. Look out for the Pothuraju, believed to be the goddess's brother. He is a bare-chested man, his body smeared with turmeric, who dances frenetically, lashing a whip to ward off evil spirits and lead the procession. Another key ritual is the Ghatam, a decorated copper pot representing the goddess, which is carried by a priest through the city before being immersed in water on the final day.
Where and When to Experience Bonalu
The festival unfolds over four Sundays across the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad, with each week focusing on a different area. For 2026, the celebrations span from mid-July to early August. The festivities traditionally kick off on the first Sunday at the historic Golconda Fort. The following weeks see massive gatherings at the Ujjaini Mahakali Temple in Secunderabad and the Balkampet Yellamma temple. The climax often occurs on the third or fourth Sunday in the Old City of Hyderabad, especially at the revered Sri Mahankali Temple in Lal Darwaza and the Akkanna Madanna Temple at Haribowli. These locations become epicenters of devotion, with streets thronged by lakhs of devotees and a carnival-like atmosphere.
Tips for Your Bonalu Trip
If you plan to witness Bonalu, a little preparation goes a long way. Be ready for large crowds, loud music, and a high-energy environment. Dress modestly and wear comfortable footwear, as you'll likely be doing a lot of walking. While the festival is welcoming to visitors, it's important to be respectful of the rituals, especially of the women carrying Bonam or those who enter a trance-like state while dancing. The festival is a fantastic opportunity for photography, but always be mindful of people's personal space. Exploring the areas around the main temples, like Lal Darwaza or Charminar, will immerse you in the festive spirit, with stalls selling everything from offerings and bangles to delicious local food.
Beyond the Festival
A Bonalu-centric trip allows you to see a side of Hyderabad that many tourists miss, but don't forget the city's other treasures. Use the days between the Sunday festivities to explore iconic landmarks like the Charminar, the opulent Chowmahalla Palace, or the bustling Laad Bazaar. The festival provides a vibrant cultural lens through which to view the city's history. The same streets that host the grand Ghatam procession are steeped in the legacy of the Nizams. Pairing the dynamic, living tradition of Bonalu with visits to these historical sites creates a richer, more comprehensive understanding of Hyderabad's unique identity as a city where the past and present are in constant, colourful dialogue.
