From Commodity to Craft
For years, cacao grown in the southern states of India—primarily Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka—was sold as a raw ingredient to large multinational companies. The focus was on quantity, not quality, with little attention paid to the intricate
processes of fermentation and drying that develop flavour. Now, that is changing. A vibrant bean-to-bar movement has taken root, where chocolatiers control every step of the process, from sourcing the cacao beans to crafting the final bar. This hands-on approach allows them to unlock the unique, complex flavours of Indian cacao, moving it from a simple crop to a celebrated artisanal product.
The Terroir of the South
Just like wine, chocolate's flavour is heavily influenced by its 'terroir'—the soil, climate, and environment where the cacao is grown. South India's diverse agricultural landscape creates beans with distinct personalities. Cacao from the Idukki Hills in Kerala might have fruity or spicy notes, influenced by the other crops grown nearby. Beans from the Anamalai hills in Tamil Nadu, home to one of India's first tree-to-bar brands, Soklet, are known for their earthy and nutty profiles. These chocolatiers celebrate this diversity, often creating single-origin bars that tell the story of a specific farm or region.
Pioneers of the Movement
Several brands are at the forefront of this chocolate renaissance. Mason & Co, based in Auroville, was one of the early pioneers, creating organic, vegan, and ethically sourced chocolates that let the flavour of South Indian beans shine. They work directly with farmers and employ an all-women workforce to handcraft their products. Another key player is Naviluna in Mysuru, one of the first in India to work exclusively with organically certified Indian cacao. Known for its inventive flavour pairings like Tokai Coffee & Pineapple, Naviluna focuses on preserving the delicate aromas of the bean. Meanwhile, Kochi-based Paul and Mike has gained international fame for its bold infusions, using local ingredients like jamun and golden berries in its award-winning bars.
Winning on the World Stage
The claim of 'global-quality' is not just marketing hype. These Indian brands are consistently winning prestigious international accolades. Hyderabad's Manam Chocolate, which sources beans from the West Godavari region, won a staggering 17 awards at the 2023 Academy of Chocolate Awards. Paul and Mike has also secured top honours at the International Chocolate Awards. These recognitions are a powerful validation, proving that Indian-grown cacao, when treated with skill and respect, can compete with the long-established chocolate giants of Belgium and Switzerland. It marks a significant shift in perception, placing Indian chocolate on the world map for its quality and complexity.
More Than Just a Sweet Treat
The craft chocolate movement is about more than just taste; it's also about ethics and sustainability. Many of these brands, including Pascati, one of India's first organic and Fairtrade certified makers, build direct relationships with farmers. This ensures farmers receive a fair price for their produce and encourages sustainable agricultural practices. Brands like Soklet operate on their own permaculture-based plantations, growing cacao alongside coconut, pepper, and nutmeg to create a biodiverse environment that enhances the beans' flavour. For consumers, this translates into a product that is not only delicious but also transparent and ethically produced.
