The Regal North: Kundan, Polki, and Meenakari
North Indian bridal jewellery is synonymous with Mughal-era grandeur, characterized by intricate craftsmanship and opulent designs. Styles from Rajasthan, Punjab, and Uttar Pradesh often feature Kundan, Polki, and Meenakari work. Kundan is a traditional
technique of setting glass or gemstones into a gold foil base. Polki jewellery, on the other hand, uses uncut, unpolished diamonds, giving it a raw, antique charm and making it a significant investment. Meenakari, the art of enameling vibrant colors onto the metal, often appears on the reverse side of Kundan and Polki pieces, making them reversible works of art. Key pieces include the 'Maang Tikka' (forehead ornament), the 'Nath' (nose ring), and elaborate layered necklaces. Punjabi brides are also known for their 'Chooda' (red and white bangles) and 'Kaleere' (dangling ornaments tied to the bangles).
The Divine South: Temple and Antique Gold
South Indian bridal jewellery is a tribute to divinity, drawing inspiration from temple architecture and deities. 'Temple jewellery' is the hallmark of this region, featuring motifs of gods, goddesses like Lakshmi, lotuses, and peacocks embossed in gold. Originally created to adorn temple idols, these pieces became treasured bridal wear, symbolizing blessings and prosperity. Brides in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka are often adorned with multiple layers of gold necklaces, such as the 'Manga Malai' (mango-shaped necklace) and the 'Kasu Mala' (coin necklace). The 'Vaddanam' or 'Oddiyanam' is a significant waist belt that accentuates the bridal saree. Other essential pieces include bell-shaped 'Jhumkas' or 'Jimikki' earrings, the 'Vanki' armlet, and hair ornaments that complete the divine bridal look.
The Artistic East: Gold and Handcrafted Symbols
The eastern states of India, particularly West Bengal and Odisha, showcase unique jewellery traditions rooted in fine craftsmanship. A Bengali bride’s attire is considered incomplete without the 'Shakha Pola'—a pair of bangles made from conch shells (Shakha) and red coral (Pola), symbolizing marriage and fertility. Gold is paramount, with intricate pieces like the 'Sita Haar' (a long, layered necklace) and the 'Kaan Bala' (earrings that cover the entire ear). The 'Nath', a large golden nose ring, often with a delicate chain, is another quintessential element. In Bihar, brides wear 'Lahthi' bangles made from lac, and a distinctive drum-shaped necklace called a 'Dholna'. Jewellery from this region often tells a story, blending religious motifs with the beauty of nature.
The Traditional West: Pearls and Distinctive Naths
Western India, encompassing Maharashtra and Gujarat, presents a blend of elegance and tradition. The Maharashtrian bride is easily identified by her unique 'Brahmani Nath', a large, cashew-shaped nose ring adorned with pearls and colourful beads. Pearl jewellery is central to the Maharashtrian look, seen in pieces like the 'Tanmani' choker and 'Mohan Mala' (a long beaded necklace). The 'Kolhapuri Saaj' is another treasured necklace with a pendant that holds deep cultural significance. In Gujarat, brides often wear a 'Matha Patti' that frames the forehead and layered gold necklaces. The jewellery here often features intricate filigree work and may include the auspicious 'Navratna' necklace, which contains nine different gemstones.
