Verify Purity and Karat
Before you even consider a design, the first checkpoint is purity. Gold's purity is measured in karats (K). 24K gold is the purest form at 99.9%, but it's too soft for intricate jewellery. That's why it's often mixed with alloys like zinc and silver.
Most traditional Indian jewellery is made from 22K gold, which contains 91.6% pure gold (often stamped with '916'). For diamond-studded or more contemporary pieces, 18K gold (75% purity, stamped '750') is common due to its durability. Always ask the jeweller about the karatage and look for the corresponding purity mark on the piece itself.
Insist on BIS Hallmarking
To ensure you get the purity you pay for, always buy jewellery certified by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). The BIS hallmark is a government-backed guarantee of quality. Since mid-2021, hallmarking has become mandatory for gold jewellers in many districts across India. A hallmarked piece will have three key symbols engraved on it: the triangular BIS logo, the purity grade (e.g., 22K916), and a unique six-digit alphanumeric code called the Hallmark Unique Identification (HUID) number. Buying non-hallmarked gold carries a significant risk of being cheated on purity.
Decode the HUID Number
The Hallmark Unique Identification (HUID) number is a crucial feature of the new hallmarking system. This six-digit alphanumeric code is unique to each piece of jewellery, ensuring its traceability and authenticity. Think of it as an Aadhaar card for your ornament. You can instantly verify the HUID using the government's 'BIS CARE' mobile app. Before finalising your purchase, ask the jeweller for the HUID and check it on the app. The app will display details like the jeweller who got it hallmarked, the assaying centre, and the purity, confirming the piece is genuine.
Understand Making and Wastage Charges
The final price of jewellery is not just the value of the gold. It includes 'making charges', which cover the cost of labour to craft the raw gold into an ornament. These charges can be a flat rate per gram or, more commonly, a percentage of the gold's value, typically ranging from 5% to over 25% depending on the complexity of the design. Some jewellers may also include 'wastage charges'. Crucially, making charges are often negotiable, so don't hesitate to discuss them with the jeweller. Always ask for a clear breakdown to understand exactly what you are paying for.
Scrutinise the Final Bill
A transparent bill is as important as the jewellery itself. The invoice should clearly itemise the rate of gold on that day, the weight of the gold, the making charges, and the applicable GST. For studded jewellery, ensure the weight of the stones is mentioned and deducted from the net weight of the gold. A detailed bill is not just for your records; it is essential proof of purchase required for any future exchange or buy-back. Without a proper bill that breaks down all costs, you may face difficulties later.
Clarify the Buy-Back Policy
Gold is often seen as a long-term investment, so it's wise to understand the jeweller's buy-back or exchange policy before you purchase. Ask them what value you will get if you decide to sell or exchange the piece in the future. Most jewellers will have a policy, but the terms can vary significantly. Typically, the buy-back value is calculated on the net weight of the gold at the prevailing rate, and deductions are made for making charges and taxes, which are non-refundable. A reputable jeweller will have a clear and transparent buy-back policy.
