The Rise of Hyper-Local Exploration
For years, the architectural narrative of India was dominated by Mughal forts, Rajput palaces, and colonial landmarks. But what about the stories etched into the walls of a Maratha wada in Nagpur, a Bundeli haveli in Orchha, or an Art Deco cinema in Indore?
A growing number of citizen-led heritage walks are filling this gap. These are not grand, formal tours but intimate journeys on foot, often led by locals passionate about their city’s past. They peel back the layers of urban development to reveal structures and stories that have been hiding in plain sight, offering a richer, more nuanced understanding of regional history.
Bhopal: Footsteps Through the City of Begums
Bhopal's history is famously shaped by the series of powerful women who ruled it for over a century. While the city is known for its lakes, heritage walks here dive deep into the lanes of the old Walled City, or Shahjahanabad. These walks go beyond the grand mosques like Taj-ul-Masajid and instead focus on the intricate network of chowks, havelis, and marketplaces that formed the social and economic fabric of the princely state. You might find yourself admiring the unique cusped arches of a forgotten nobleman’s residence, hearing tales of the city's unique Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb, or learning about the sophisticated water management systems that once sustained the city. It’s history made tangible, one story-filled step at a time.
Nagpur: The Forgotten Bhonsle Legacy
Often dismissed as a mere administrative or transit hub, Nagpur holds a rich architectural legacy from its time as the capital of the Bhonsle Marathas. Local groups have started curating walks that navigate the crowded commercial areas of Mahal and Sitabuldi to spotlight the city’s distinctive ‘wada’ culture. These traditional courtyard mansions, built with dark teak wood and intricate carvings, are beautiful examples of Maratha residential architecture. Walks here uncover the history of structures like the Bhonsle Wada, detailing a history that predates the British Raj and connects the city to the wider Maratha confederacy. It's a powerful reminder that history exists not just in palaces but in the homes people lived in.
Indore: Holkar Grandeur and Art Deco Dreams
Indore presents a fascinating blend of architectural styles, and its heritage walks reflect this diversity. While the seven-storey Rajwada Palace, the seat of the Holkar dynasty, is a natural starting point, the real discovery lies in the streets branching off from it. Guides lead curious walkers past stunning temples and the iconic cenotaphs, or ‘chhatris’, of the Holkar rulers. But the most surprising element is the city's collection of Art Deco buildings. In the 1930s and 40s, Indore embraced this modern architectural style, resulting in a number of elegant commercial buildings and cinemas that are often overlooked. A walk here is a journey through time, from 18th-century Maratha power to 20th-century modernity.
Gwalior: Stories Beyond the Famous Fort
The Gwalior Fort is so immense and overpowering that it tends to eclipse the rest of the city's history. However, heritage walks are now encouraging visitors to look beyond its formidable walls. They focus on the ‘Lashkar’ area, the ‘new’ city established by Daulat Rao Scindia in the 19th century. Here, the architecture tells a different story—one of royal processions, bustling trade, and European influences blending with Maratha aesthetics. Exploring the historic Sarafa Bazaar or the lanes around Jai Vilas Palace on foot reveals a living heritage, where historic shopfronts and grand townhouses are still part of the city's daily life, offering a more grounded perspective on the Scindia dynasty's legacy.
