How to wash and soften woollen knits

• Use mild detergent and cool water to prevent woollen shrinkage
• Use hair conditioner or vinegar to soften scratchy knitwear
• Lay garments flat on a towel to dry instead of hanging them

As the winter chill sets in, we reach for our cosiest woollen sweaters. But the fear of shrinking a beloved knit or enduring a scratchy texture can be daunting. Thankfully, with a few simple techniques, you can keep your woollens soft and pristine.

First, Read the Label

Before you begin, always check the garment's care label. This is the single most important step. Labels provide specific instructions based on the type of wool and whether it's blended with other fibres. 'Hand Wash Only' means exactly that, while some modern woollens are surprisingly machine-friendly. Taking a moment to read the label can save you from a laundry disaster.

The Gentle Art of Hand Washing

Hand washing is the safest method for most wool garments. Start by filling a basin or a clean sink with cool or lukewarm water, around 30°C. Hot water can cause the delicate wool fibres to shrink and felt. Add a small amount of a mild, wool-specific detergent. Standard detergents can be too harsh, stripping the wool of its natural oils. Turn your garment inside out, submerge it, and gently squeeze the water through it. Avoid any aggressive rubbing or wringing, which can distort the shape and cause pilling. Let it soak for about 10 to 30 minutes before rinsing.

Rinsing and Removing Excess Water

To rinse, drain the soapy water and refill the basin with clean, cool water. Gently press the water through the garment until no suds remain. Once clean, carefully lift the sweater, supporting its weight so it doesn't stretch. Never wring out a woollen item. Instead, gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Then, lay the garment flat on a thick, clean towel. Roll the towel and sweater together like a swiss roll, pressing firmly to absorb more moisture.

The Secret to Banishing Scratchiness

If your knitwear feels more prickly than pleasant, there's a simple trick to soften it: hair conditioner. Just like it softens hair, conditioner can relax and smooth the fibres of wool. After washing, soak the damp garment for about 15–30 minutes in a basin of cool water mixed with a generous dollop of inexpensive hair conditioner. After the soak, rinse it lightly with cool water. Another method is to add a bit of white vinegar to the final rinse water, which helps dissolve any leftover soap residue that can make wool feel stiff.

Machine Washing with Caution

If your sweater's care label permits machine washing, there are rules to follow for success. Always use the 'wool' or 'delicate' cycle with cold water. To protect the garment from friction and snagging, turn it inside out and place it in a mesh laundry bag. Don't overload the machine, as this can cause agitation and felting. Use a wool–safe detergent and never use a tumble dryer, as the heat is a primary cause of shrinkage.

Drying: The Final, Crucial Step

The way you dry wool is just as important as how you wash it. After removing excess water, reshape the garment and lay it flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Never hang a wet wool sweater, as the weight of the water will stretch it out of shape permanently. Keep it away from direct sunlight or heat sources like radiators, which can cause fibres to become dry and brittle. Depending on the thickness, it may take 12 to 24 hours to dry completely.