The Secret Weapon: Hair Padding
Before cans of extra-strong hairspray became a staple, stylists and women at home relied on a clever trick: padding. Known as 'hair rats', these were small pads made from matted hair (often collected from one's own brush) or other materials, shaped into
rolls or buns. Placed strategically under the outer layers of your hair, a rat provides a solid foundation for voluminous styles like pompadours and bouffants. This method creates dramatic shape and height without the need for endless teasing or sticky products that weigh hair down. You can purchase modern mesh or foam versions, or even make your own by collecting clean hair from your brush and encasing it in a hairnet. To use one, you simply pin the rat to your head where you want volume, and then carefully comb and smooth your own hair over it for a seamless finish.
Mastering the Art of Backcombing
Backcombing, or teasing, is one of the oldest tricks for creating instant lift. When done correctly, it builds a 'cushion' of hair at the roots that provides structure and volume. The key is to be gentle to avoid damage. Work with small, clean sections of hair. Hold a section taut and, using a fine-tooth comb or a special teasing brush, gently push the hair down toward the scalp in a few short strokes. Focus the effort only at the roots. The goal is to create a dense, fuzzy patch underneath, while the top layer of the hair section remains smooth. Once you have teased the underlying sections, you can gently brush the smooth top layers over the backcombed areas to hide the work and create a polished, voluminous look.
The Power of a Good Set
Much of the structure in vintage hairstyles came from setting the hair while it was damp and letting it dry completely. This gave the hair a 'memory' that helped it hold its shape and volume. Using rollers was a common method. Whether you use classic sponge rollers, Velcro rollers, or even heated rollers for a modern shortcut, the technique provides lift right from the root. For classic Hollywood waves, setting hair in pin curls was the go-to method. After washing, you can apply a very light, non-heavy setting lotion or mousse, then carefully roll sections of your hair and secure them. Allowing the hair to air dry or sitting under a bonnet dryer until it's 100% dry is crucial. Once you take the rollers out, you'll have a foundation of volume and curl that can be brushed and styled into your desired shape.
Smarter Blow-Drying Techniques
While women in the mid-20th century might have sat under bonnet dryers, you can use your modern blow dryer to achieve similar root-lifting results. One of the simplest and most effective methods is to flip your hair upside down and dry it that way. This encourages the roots to lift away from the scalp as they dry, creating natural volume. Using a round brush while you blow-dry can further enhance this effect. As you dry each section, pull the hair upwards at the root with the brush to create tension and lift. Once a section is dry, a blast of cool air can help to 'set' the volume in place, making it last longer.
