North India: The Sattvic Fast
In North India, including states like Uttar Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana, and Madhya Pradesh, Navratri is synonymous with 'vrat' or fasting. The guiding principle is a sattvic diet, which aims to be pure, clean, and light on the body and mind. This means
abstaining from grains like wheat and rice, lentils, onions, garlic, and regular table salt. Instead, kitchens embrace a special pantry of ingredients. Flours made from buckwheat (kuttu), water chestnut (singhara), and amaranth (rajgira) are used to make puris, rotis, and cheelas. Barnyard millet (samak rice) becomes a popular substitute for rice, often prepared as a simple pulao or a creamy kheer. The quintessential fasting meal often features Sabudana Khichdi, a comforting dish made from tapioca pearls, peanuts, and potatoes. Rock salt (sendha namak) is the only salt used, believed to be its purest form without chemical processing. The focus is on fruits, nuts, and dairy products like paneer and yogurt to maintain energy levels through the nine days of devotion.
Gujarat: Fasting with Festive Flair
While fasting is also central to Navratri in Gujarat, the state famous for its energetic Garba and Dandiya Raas dances adds its own flavourful twist. After evenings spent dancing, people often indulge in special 'farali' (fasting) snacks. These dishes adhere to the fasting rules but are anything but dull. The state's culinary creativity shines through with farali versions of favourites like dhokla, made from barnyard millet instead of the usual gram flour. Aloo ki sabzi or Batata nu Shaak, a simple potato curry seasoned with cumin and rock salt, is a staple. Sabudana khichdi and vadas are also widely popular. For those with a sweet tooth, there are treats like Gol Papdi, a sweet flatbread made from wheat flour, jaggery, and ghee, or Singhare ka Halwa. The fasting diet is designed to be light yet sustaining, providing enough energy for the vibrant, nightly celebrations that define Gujarati Navratri.
West Bengal: A Grand Feast for Durga Puja
In West Bengal and for Bengali communities everywhere, these nine days are celebrated as Durga Puja, and the approach to food is starkly different. Instead of fasting, it is a time for feasting and community gatherings. The highlight is the 'bhog', a grand vegetarian meal offered to Goddess Durga and then distributed to devotees in pandals. This is no simple meal; it's an elaborate spread prepared without onions or garlic. The star of the bhog is almost always Bhoger Khichuri, a fragrant and flavourful rice and moong dal preparation cooked with ghee and aromatic spices. Accompanying it is Labra, a mixed vegetable curry with seasonal produce like pumpkin, potatoes, and brinjal cooked in mustard oil with traditional panch phoron spices. Other common items include Begun Bhaja (fried brinjal slices), sweet tomato chutney, and a variety of sweets like Payesh (rice kheer) and Roshogolla. The bhog is a culinary celebration, embodying the spirit of community and shared joy.
South India: Golu and Sundals
In the southern states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh, Navratri is celebrated with the beautiful tradition of 'Golu' or 'Kolu', an elaborate display of dolls and idols depicting gods, goddesses, and scenes from daily life. Food plays a vital role here as well, particularly the 'sundal'. Sundal is a simple, savoury, and nutritious dish made from different legumes and pulses. Each of the nine days, a different variety of sundal is prepared as a 'neivedyam' (offering) to the deity and then distributed as 'prasadam' to guests who come to view the Golu. Popular versions include sundal made from chickpeas (konda kadalai), black-eyed peas (karamani), green gram (pachai payaru), and peanuts. The preparation is straightforward: the legume is cooked until soft, then tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and chillies, and finally garnished with grated coconut. Alongside these savoury snacks, sweet dishes like payasam (kheer) and various rice preparations are also made, making it a festival of diverse flavours.
