The Malabar Coast's Festive Biryani
In the northern Malabar region of Kerala, the Onam feast doesn't always end with the vegetarian Sadhya. Many families, particularly in the Thalassery area, celebrate with non-vegetarian dishes for dinner on Thiruvonam day or on the preceding day, Uthradam.
The star of this celebration is often the fragrant Thalassery Biryani. Unlike other biryanis, it uses a short-grain, thin rice variety called Kaima or Jeerakasala. Layered with richly spiced chicken or mutton masala, fried onions, cashews, and raisins, and slow-cooked in a sealed pot (dum), this biryani is a celebration in itself. Adding this to your Onam menu offers a delicious contrast to the traditional lunch.
Travancore's Rich Meat and Fish Curries
Travel south to the erstwhile Travancore region, and you'll find that meat and fish are integral to festive celebrations for many communities. While the main Onam lunch remains the vegetarian Sadhya, other meals during the festival period often feature robust local specialities. Among the Syrian Christian community in areas like Kottayam, a celebratory meal might include Kottayam-style fish curry (Meen Vevichathu), a fiery red curry made with kudampuli (Malabar tamarind), or the milder Fish Molee, a stew-like curry with a coconut milk base. Another favourite is a hearty beef fry (Ularthiyathu), where beef chunks are slow-roasted with spices, coconut slivers, and curry leaves until they are dark, fragrant, and incredibly flavourful.
Central Kerala's Duck Delicacies
In the Kuttanad region of Central Kerala, an area famous for its backwaters and paddy fields, duck is a celebrated delicacy. For festive occasions, Tharavu Mappas, or duck curry, often graces the dining table. This rich, aromatic dish involves cooking tender duck meat in a spiced, roasted coconut gravy. The complex blend of spices like star anise, cloves, and cinnamon, combined with the creaminess of coconut milk, makes it a luxurious addition to any celebratory meal. Serving this alongside Appam (lacy rice pancakes) or Idiyappam (string hoppers) is a classic combination that offers a unique taste of this specific region's culinary heritage.
Sweets Beyond the Payasam Parade
The Sadhya is famous for its multiple payasams, but Kerala's sweet offerings don't stop there. Exploring regional desserts can add a delightful surprise to your Onam spread. From the Malabar coast comes Unnakkai, a spindle-shaped sweet treat made from steamed and mashed plantains, stuffed with a sweet mixture of grated coconut, jaggery, nuts, and cardamom, and then deep-fried. Another classic is Ilayada, a rice parcel steamed in banana leaves. A rice flour dough is spread thinly on a piece of banana leaf, filled with a sweet coconut and jaggery mixture, folded, and then steamed. The banana leaf imparts a subtle, unique aroma to the sweet, making it a truly traditional and wholesome dessert.
