The Grandeur of the Sadhya
The Onam Sadhya is more than just a meal; it is a culinary institution and the centrepiece of Kerala’s harvest festival. Traditionally, this vegetarian feast includes anywhere from 20 to over 60 dishes served in a specific order on a banana leaf. Key
items include staples like parippu curry (lentils with ghee), sambar, tangy rasam, and a vibrant medley of vegetable preparations such as avial (mixed vegetables in coconut), thoran (stir-fried vegetables with grated coconut), and olan (ash gourd in coconut milk). Accompaniments like fiery pickles, crunchy pappadams, and banana chips add layers of texture and flavour. The meal traditionally concludes with a variety of sweet payasams, a milk- or jaggery-based pudding.
A Culinary Map of Kerala
To understand the shift in Onam menus, one must appreciate that Kerala's cuisine is not monolithic. The state is broadly divided into distinct culinary regions, primarily Travancore in the south, Kochi in the centre, and Malabar in the north. Each region has its own unique flavour profiles, ingredients, and cooking techniques influenced by history, trade, and local produce. Travancore cuisine, for instance, often features a subtle sweetness in its curries and a specific set of sadhya dishes. In contrast, the Malabar region, with its long history of maritime trade, is famous for its aromatic biryanis, rich meat preparations, and layered breads like the Malabar parotta. Christian and Muslim communities across the state also have their own beloved dishes, which often include fish, chicken, and beef, that are part of their festive celebrations.
The Rise of Regional Stars
Increasingly, chefs and restaurateurs are shining a spotlight on these regional classics during Onam. While the traditional Sadhya remains revered, menus are expanding to offer a more comprehensive taste of Kerala. You might now find a Thalassery vegetable biryani offered alongside the usual Sadhya items, a nod to the Malabar coast's culinary prowess. Some establishments are even creating non-vegetarian offerings served alongside the main feast, a practice common in many households but less so in commercial settings. For example, a restaurant brunch menu might feature mutton curry with parottas or Meen Pollichathu (fish steamed in a banana leaf) as special additions. This move allows for a fuller celebration of Kerala's entire culinary spectrum.
Why Chefs Are Driving This Change
Several factors are fuelling this delicious evolution. For one, there is a growing desire among culinary professionals to showcase hyper-local food heritage. Chefs like Regi Mathew of Kappa Chakka Kandhari have been at the forefront, aiming to present a more nuanced and complete picture of their native cuisine. This includes incorporating dishes that may have been confined to home kitchens or specific communities. Furthermore, there's a recognition of changing consumer palates. Diners, especially those in urban centres and the diaspora, are increasingly adventurous and eager to explore authentic, lesser-known dishes. By expanding their Onam menus, restaurants can cater to both traditionalists who crave a classic Sadhya and food explorers looking for something new, thereby broadening the festive experience for everyone.
