The Gentle Morning Start
The morning of Thiruvonam, the main day of the festival, doesn't start with the rich and complex flavours of the sadhya. Instead, it begins on a lighter, more comforting note with traditional breakfast dishes. These meals are designed to provide warmth
and energy for the day's festivities without overwhelming the palate. Items like Puttu, steamed cylinders of rice flour and coconut, or Idiyappam (string hoppers) served with sweetened coconut milk are common. They are simpler than the grand feast to follow but are deeply rooted in nostalgia and family traditions, representing a gentle and soulful start to the celebrations. These breakfasts are an integral part of the Onam experience, enjoyed as the family gathers before the day's main events unfold.
Pazham Nurukku: Sweet Plantain Goodness
A star of the Onam breakfast spread is Pazham Nurukku. This incredibly simple yet delicious dish consists of ripe plantains, or 'nendran pazham', chopped and steamed until soft. It's often served with a generous drizzle of ghee and a sprinkle of sugar, transforming the humble fruit into a festive treat. Pazham Nurukku is a tribute to Kerala’s identity as the land of plantains and its deep agrarian roots. Its natural sweetness and nourishing quality make it a beloved dish for all ages, perfectly embodying the festive spirit in a warm, comforting bowl.
Unniyappam: The Festive Fry
Throughout the ten days of Onam, homes are filled with the aroma of various snacks, and Unniyappam is a quintessential festive favourite. These small, round, golden-brown fritters are made from a batter of rice flour, ripe bananas, jaggery, and fragrant cardamom. Fried in a special pan called an 'appe pan', they emerge with a crispy exterior and a soft, spongy inside. While they sometimes feature in the sadhya, they are more commonly enjoyed as a teatime snack or a sweet offering shared with neighbours and friends, symbolizing joy and togetherness. Each bite is a delightful mix of sweet and savoury flavours.
Sharkara Varatti: The Jaggery-Coated Gem
While banana chips (upperi) are a standard component of the sadhya, their sweeter cousin, Sharkara Varatti, is a true festive delicacy. Unlike the thin, salty chips, these are thick-cut pieces of raw banana fried to a crisp and then coated in a rich, dark syrup of melted jaggery, spiced with dried ginger and cardamom. The result is a crunchy, sticky, and intensely flavourful snack that offers a perfect contrast to the savoury items on the banana leaf. It’s a classic Onam preparation that requires skill to perfect, and a handful of these sweet, chunky chips is a non-negotiable part of the celebration for many.
The Surprising Non-Vegetarian Traditions
While the Onam sadhya is famously vegetarian, reflecting a tradition of sattvic feasting, it's not the whole story across Kerala. In certain regions, particularly in the northern Malabar area and parts of central Kerala, non-vegetarian dishes are an essential part of the Onam meal. For many communities, a feast is incomplete without meat or fish. It's not uncommon for families to serve fish curry made from the day's fresh catch or a flavourful chicken curry alongside the vegetarian spread. This practice highlights the incredible diversity of Kerala's culinary landscape, where traditions are adapted to reflect local culture and preferences, proving that the spirit of Onam is celebrated in many delicious ways.
