Humectants Used Incorrectly
Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin are famous for being hydration heroes. They work by pulling moisture from the environment into your skin. In humid summer months, this is fantastic. But in dry winter air, there's little moisture for them
to grab. Instead, they can start pulling water from the deeper layers of your own skin, bringing it to the surface where it evaporates, leaving your skin even drier than before. This doesn't mean you have to ditch them entirely. The trick is to always apply them to damp skin and immediately seal them in with a thicker, occlusive moisturiser or facial oil. This gives the humectant water to hold onto and prevents it from escaping.
Certain Drying Alcohols
Not all alcohols in skincare are bad, but some can be particularly harsh during winter. Denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol are often used to give products a quick-drying, weightless feel or to help other ingredients penetrate. However, they can also strip your skin's natural oils, compromising its protective barrier. When your skin barrier is already stressed by cold wind and dry air, these alcohols can lead to increased dryness, irritation, and sensitivity. Look for cleansers and toners labelled 'gentle' and 'moisturising', and check the ingredient list for these specific types of alcohols.
Overly Aggressive Exfoliating Acids
Chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid and salicylic acid are great for achieving smooth, clear skin, but they can be too much for winter-stressed complexions. Over-exfoliating can strip the skin, removing the healthy oils that help trap moisture. While you don't necessarily have to stop using them, it's wise to reduce the frequency. If you normally use a strong acid daily, try scaling back to a few times a week. For those with acne-prone skin using salicylic acid, consider a product with a lower concentration or pair it with extra hydrating ingredients to avoid excessive dryness.
Harsh Foaming Cleansers
That squeaky-clean feeling you get from a high-foaming cleanser often comes from surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). These ingredients are very effective at removing dirt and oil—sometimes too effective. In winter, when your skin is already producing less oil and struggling to retain moisture, a harsh cleanser can strip away essential lipids and damage your skin barrier. This can leave your skin feeling tight, dry, and irritated. Instead, switch to a creamier, more hydrating cleanser that removes impurities without disrupting your skin's natural balance. Look for formulas that are gentle, moisturising, and free of sulfates.
Strong Retinoids Without Adjustment
Retinoids are a gold standard for antiaging and acne treatment, but their tendency to cause dryness and irritation can be amplified in the winter. The combination of dry air and increased cell turnover from retinoids can leave the skin feeling raw and sensitive. This doesn't mean you need to stop using this powerhouse ingredient. Instead, make adjustments. You might reduce the frequency of application, buffer it by applying a simple moisturiser first, or switch to a lower concentration for the colder months. And never forget your sunscreen, as retinoids increase sun sensitivity, even on cloudy winter days.
Untamed Fragrance
Fragrance, whether synthetic or from natural essential oils, adds a pleasant sensory experience but offers no real benefit to your skin. In fact, fragrance is one of the most common causes of skin irritation and allergic reactions, known as contact dermatitis. When your skin barrier is already compromised by the winter environment, it can become more susceptible to irritation from fragrances, even from products you've used without issue in the past. To be safe, consider switching to 'fragrancefree' products (which is different from 'unscented') for the winter, especially if you have sensitive skin or conditions like eczema.
HeavyDuty Clay Masks
Clay masks are fantastic for absorbing excess oil and impurities. However, in winter even oily skin can become dehydrated. Strongly absorbent clays like bentonite can be too intense pulling not just oil but also essential moisture from the skin leaving it feeling stripped and tight. This doesn't mean you have to give up masks. Opt for milder clays like kaolin or rhassoul which offer gentle purification without being overly drying. You can also look for clay masks formulated with hydrating ingredients like honey glycerin or oils to help replenish moisture. Limiting mask use to once a week is also a good strategy for winter.
