The Tale of Two Oils
For generations, Indian cooking was defined by regional oils: mustard in the North and East, groundnut in the West, and coconut in the South. These oils, extracted using traditional presses (known as 'ghani' or 'chekku'), were not just cooking mediums;
they were ingredients that gave dishes their characteristic flavour and aroma. In the late 20th century, heavily marketed refined oils entered the market, promising modernity, longer shelf life, and heart-health benefits. They were cheaper and neutral in taste, and quickly became the default in many households. Now, the tide is turning as consumers become more aware of processing methods and nutritional science begins to validate what traditional wisdom knew all along.
Cold-Pressed vs. Refined: What's the Difference?
The core difference lies in the extraction process. Cold-pressed oils are made by simply crushing oilseeds at a low temperature without using external heat or chemical solvents. This gentle, mechanical method ensures that the oil's natural nutrients, antioxidants, colour, and flavour are preserved. Refining, on the other hand, is an industrial process designed for maximum yield and stability. It involves high heat and chemical solvents like hexane to extract the oil, followed by steps like degumming, neutralization, bleaching, and deodorizing to remove impurities, free fatty acids, pigments, and odours.
The Nutritional Advantage
The harsh refining process that gives oil a uniform, light appearance also strips it of valuable nutrients. A significant portion of natural antioxidants, vitamins like Vitamin E, and beneficial plant compounds called phytosterols are lost. Cold-pressed oils, by contrast, retain these compounds. Cold-pressed groundnut oil is a good source of monounsaturated fats (MUFAs) and Vitamin E, which support heart health. Similarly, 'kacchi ghani' mustard oil keeps its beneficial ratio of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which many refined oils lack.
Flavour: The Missing Ingredient
Perhaps the most significant reason for the switch back is flavour. Refined oils are intentionally made to be bland and odourless. While this is useful in some baking applications, it removes a layer of character from traditional Indian cooking. The sharp, pungent kick of cold-pressed mustard oil is essential for authentic North and East Indian dishes, from tempering dals to making pickles. Likewise, the nutty aroma of cold-pressed groundnut oil enhances the taste of everything from sabzis to fried snacks. For many who make the switch, it's about rediscovering how their food is supposed to taste.
Debunking the Smoke Point Myth
A common argument for refined oils is their higher smoke point, making them seem better for high-heat cooking like deep-frying. While it's true that refining removes impurities that burn, the smoke points of traditional oils are more than sufficient for most home cooking. Most Indian deep-frying happens between 165°C and 180°C. Cold-pressed groundnut oil has a smoke point in the 160-180°C range, and cold-pressed mustard oil sits between 150-180°C, making both suitable for methods like shallow frying, sautéing, and even deep-frying pooris or pakoras at home. The key is to avoid overheating the oil, a good practice regardless of the type you use.
