The Ritual of Bhog
No Durga Puja experience is complete without partaking in 'bhog', the blessed food offered to the Goddess and then distributed to devotees. This community meal, often served free at pandals, is the soul of Puja feasting. The star of the show is 'khichuri',
a comforting, flavourful mix of rice and roasted moong dal, quite unlike any other version you have tasted. It's typically accompanied by 'labra', a mishmash of seasonal vegetables, and 'beguni', which are crispy fried brinjal fritters. Often, a sweet and tangy tomato chutney and a small portion of 'payesh' (rice pudding) complete this divine, vegetarian platter that brings thousands together.
On-the-Go Pandal Hopping Rolls
When you're navigating the city's crowded lanes, moving from one spectacular pandal to the next, the Kathi Roll is your best friend. Considered one of Kolkata's most legendary street food inventions, this is the perfect, filling meal to eat on the move. A flaky, ghee-laden paratha is wrapped around a delicious filling, traditionally of chicken or mutton kebabs, garnished with sliced onions, sauces, and a squeeze of lime. During Puja, stalls pop up everywhere, each with its own loyal following. For a taste of history, you could visit places like Nizam's, credited with inventing this iconic snack.
The Unmissable Fried Delights
Durga Puja is a time to leave calorie-counting behind and indulge in the city's love for all things fried. An array of 'telebhaja' (fritters) graces every street corner stall. Beyond the classic 'beguni' (brinjal fritter), you'll find 'peyaji' (onion fritters) and 'aloo'r chop' (a spiced potato patty coated in gram flour batter). Another must-try is the Kobiraji Cutlet, a minced meat or fish cutlet enveloped in a lacy, deep-fried egg coating. And for a true taste of North Kolkata's pandal-hopping fuel, a 'Mughlai paratha'—a hefty, square-fried parcel stuffed with minced meat and egg—is an absolute essential.
Kolkata's Signature Snacks
It would be a culinary crime to visit Kolkata during Puja and not have 'phuchka'. These are crispy, hollow spheres filled with a spicy mix of mashed potatoes and chickpeas, then dunked in tangy tamarind water. While they resemble pani puri or golgappa, Kolkatans will insist that phuchka is superior. Another quintessential snack is 'ghugni', a curry made from dried yellow peas, garnished with chopped onions, chillies, and sometimes bits of mutton. It's a warm, hearty snack perfect for a cool evening. For a lighter bite while walking, 'jhalmuri'—puffed rice mixed with spices, mustard oil, peanuts, and onions—is a timeless and refreshing choice.
Biryani and Beyond
While many parts of India observe vegetarian fasts during this period, for Bengalis, Durga Puja is synonymous with feasting on fish and meat. The Kolkata Biryani, distinct for its subtle spices and the mandatory inclusion of a large, tender potato and a boiled egg, is a festival staple. Iconic restaurants like Arsalan and Royal Indian Hotel see massive queues for their celebrated biryani. Another beloved combination is 'luchi' and 'kosha mangsho'. Fluffy, deep-fried white-flour bread is paired with a rich, slow-cooked spicy mutton curry—a combination that is pure festive indulgence.
A Sweet Surrender
No Bengali celebration is complete without 'mishti' (sweets), and during Puja, the sweet shops are in a league of their own. 'Rosogolla', the spongy cheese balls in sugar syrup, is a must. But the exploration shouldn't stop there. Try 'Sandesh', a delicate sweet made from fresh cottage cheese ('chhena'). Don't miss 'Mishti Doi', a caramelized, sweetened yogurt set in earthen pots that gives it a unique flavour and texture. Sweets are offered as 'prasad', shared with family and friends, and are the perfect way to end a long night of pandal hopping.
