The Base Price of Gold
The first component of your bill is the price of the gold itself. This is based on the day's market rate for the specific purity of gold you're buying. In India, jewellery is typically made from 22-karat (91.6% pure) or 18-karat (75% pure) gold, as 24-karat
gold is too soft for intricate designs. The rate for 22K gold will be lower than the 24K rate you see on news tickers. Before you even visit a store, it's a good practice to check the official daily rate published by your local jewellery association to have a reliable benchmark. The gold value on your bill is calculated by multiplying the weight of the gold in your ornament by this daily rate.
Decoding Making Charges
Making charges are the cost of labour and craftsmanship required to convert raw gold into the piece of jewellery you've chosen. This is often the most significant cost after the gold itself and can vary widely between jewellers, ranging anywhere from 6% to over 25% of the gold's value. These charges can be calculated in two main ways: as a percentage of the gold's value or as a fixed rate per gram. Machine-made jewellery, like simple chains, usually has lower making charges compared to intricate, handcrafted pieces that require more skill and time. Crucially, this is the one part of the bill where you can often negotiate. Don't hesitate to discuss the making charges with your jeweller, especially if you are making a large purchase.
The Controversy of Wastage Charges
Often a source of confusion, 'wastage' refers to the small amount of gold that is supposedly lost during the manufacturing process. Jewellers claim that when crafting an ornament, tiny particles of gold are lost during cutting, filing, and polishing, which cannot be recovered. This charge is typically calculated as a percentage of the gold's weight, often ranging from 5% to 7%, though it can be much higher for complex designs. However, many argue that with modern manufacturing techniques, actual wastage is minimal. Some jewellers combine making and wastage charges into a single 'Value Addition' (VA) charge. Always ask for a clear explanation of how these charges are calculated, as they can significantly inflate your bill.
Understanding the GST Component
The Goods and Services Tax (GST) is a mandatory government levy that no jeweller can waive. It is applied in two parts on your bill. A 3% GST is levied on the total value of the gold. Separately, a 5% GST is applied to the making and wastage charges. Your bill should clearly show these two GST calculations as separate line items. For intra-state purchases, this will be split into CGST (Central GST) and SGST (State GST). Be wary of any jeweller offering to sell jewellery without a proper GST bill, as this is illegal and may leave you without a valid proof of purchase.
The Small but Crucial Hallmarking Fee
To ensure the purity of your gold, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) mandates hallmarking. Every piece of gold jewellery sold in India must have a six-digit alphanumeric Hallmark Unique Identification (HUID) number. Jewellers pay a nominal fee to a BIS-recognised Assaying and Hallmarking Centre (AHC) for this certification. This fee is passed on to the customer and is typically a fixed amount per article, for instance, ₹45 per piece, plus GST. This charge is non-negotiable and is your assurance of the gold's purity. You can even verify the HUID number yourself using the BIS CARE mobile app.














