Delhi: A Walk Through Old World Flavours
There is no food trail in India more iconic than the one that winds through the chaotic, beautiful lanes of Old Delhi. Centred around Chandni Chowk, this is a journey back in time. Start at the legendary Parathewali Gali, where generations of families
have been frying up stuffed flatbreads, from potato and cauliflower to more inventive fillings like bitter gourd. The experience isn't just about the parathas themselves—which are uniquely deep-fried—but the accompanying chutneys and pickles. From there, it's a short walk to find some of the city's best chaat. The Daulat ki Chaat, a light, airy, saffron-infused milk cloud available only in winter, is a must-try. For dessert, navigate to Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wala for their incredible stuffed fruit kulfi, or join the queue for hot, syrupy jalebis at Old Famous Jalebi Wala. This trail is a glorious assault on the senses.
Lucknow: In the Footsteps of Nawabs
Lucknow’s cuisine is a legacy of the Awadhi Nawabs, who prized subtlety and sophistication. This trail is all about rich, slow-cooked flavours and melt-in-your-mouth textures. Your first and most important stop is Tunday Kababi in the Chowk area. The legend of their galouti kebab—supposedly created for a toothless Nawab and made with a secret blend of over 100 spices—is famous for a reason. The kebabs are impossibly soft, served hot with paper-thin rumali rotis. Next, seek out the city’s famed biryani. Unlike its Hyderabadi cousin, Lucknowi biryani is cooked in the ‘dum pukht’ style, where the meat and rice are sealed and cooked slowly in their own juices, resulting in a fragrant, delicate flavour. Round off the royal feast with a glass of thandai or a plate of malai makkhan, a winter dessert similar to Delhi’s Daulat ki Chaat.
Mumbai: The Khau Galli Crawl
Mumbai's energy is perfectly encapsulated in its 'khau gallis' or 'food lanes'. These are veritable open-air food courts that cater to everyone, from office workers grabbing a quick lunch to families out for an evening treat. While there are many, the trail through Mohammed Ali Road (especially vibrant during Ramzan) is legendary. Here, the air is thick with the smoke of grilling meats. Sink your teeth into succulent seekh kebabs, flavourful baida rotis (minced meat-stuffed pan-fried bread), and rich nalli nihari. For something sweet, the area is famous for mawa jalebis and pillowy malpuas. Of course, no Mumbai food trail is complete without its street food icons. Dotted across the city, you must try the vada pav (a spiced potato fritter in a soft bun), the buttery pav bhaji at spots like Sardar's, and the tangy sev puri and bhel puri at any Juhu Beach stall.
Kolkata: A Symphony of Sweet and Savoury
The City of Joy offers a food trail that balances its sharp, tangy street snacks with some of the country’s most beloved sweets. Start your journey with the quintessential Kolkata snack: the puchka. Distinct from pani puri or golgappa, the puchka features a spicier, tangier water and a potato filling that will have you asking for 'just one more'. Next, graduate to the Kathi Roll, which arguably originated here. A flaky paratha wrapped around skewered kebabs, onions, and sauces is the perfect on-the-go meal. But the soul of this trail lies in its sweet shops. From the iconic rosogolla and spongy sandesh at institutions like K.C. Das or Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick, to the rich mishti doi (sweet yogurt), every bite is a testament to Bengal's mastery over milk-based desserts.
Hyderabad: The Nizami Legacy
The food of Hyderabad is a rich tapestry woven with Turkish, Mughal, and local Telugu influences. The undisputed king of this trail is the Hyderabadi biryani. At legendary eateries like Paradise or Shadab Hotel, you can experience this iconic dish in its full glory—fragrant basmati rice layered with tender, spiced meat, slow-cooked to perfection. While Haleem is primarily an Iftar dish during Ramzan, its popularity has made it more widely available. This slow-cooked porridge of meat, lentils, and wheat is a hearty, nourishing experience. To complete the trail, embrace the city’s unique café culture. Find a classic Irani café, order a cup of sweet, milky Irani chai, and pair it with a buttery, crumbly Osmania biscuit. It's the perfect, simple end to a decadent culinary journey.
