From Tradition to Trend
For generations, kokum (Garcinia indica) has been a household staple along the Konkan coast, prized for its ability to cool the body and aid digestion. Its deep red, dried rind is the souring agent in countless curries and the star of refreshing drinks
like kokum sharbat and solkadhi. But recently, chefs and baristas in urban centres have rediscovered its potential. They are experimenting with its unique flavour—a blend of tart, fruity, and subtly floral notes—in everything from gourmet mocktails and cocktails to salad dressings and even ceviche. This culinary curiosity marks a larger shift towards celebrating indigenous Indian ingredients. But as with any trend, the quality can vary wildly. This checklist will help you become a discerning consumer, able to separate the thoughtful innovations from the fleeting fads.
1. Check the Source: Real Fruit or Artificial Syrup?
The foundation of any good kokum creation is the quality of the main ingredient. A truly authentic drink or dish will use real kokum, whether it's the dried rind soaked to create a concentrate or a high-quality, preservative-free syrup. Many commercial syrups are overly sweet, masking kokum's distinctive sourness. Don't hesitate to ask the staff how their kokum flavour is prepared. If the answer is a generic, brightly coloured commercial syrup, it might be a sign that flavour authenticity isn't the priority. A deep, natural ruby or purple hue is a good sign, as is a flavour that is genuinely tart, not just sugary.
2. The Balance of Flavours: Does Kokum Shine?
Kokum has a distinct flavour that is both sour and refreshing. A successful modern take uses this profile as its star. In a well-crafted kokum cooler, mocktail, or even a savoury dish, you should be able to clearly taste the kokum. It shouldn't be overpowered by excessive sugar, aggressive spices, or other trendy ingredients. The goal of innovation should be to complement, not conquer. Think of a kokum mojito where the fruit’s tartness cuts through the mint and sweetness, or a salad dressing where it provides a zesty alternative to vinegar. If you can barely detect the kokum, it's more of a gimmick than a genuine culinary creation.
3. Respect for Tradition: Is the Essence Preserved?
The best modern dishes often pay homage to their roots. While a kokum-infused ramen broth is certainly a departure from a simple sherbet, it should still respect what makes kokum special. Traditionally, kokum is known for its cooling and digestive properties. A modern creation should feel refreshing and balanced, not heavy or cloying. The classic partners for kokum are often simple spices like roasted cumin, black salt, and sometimes ginger or green chilli. A modern drink that incorporates these familiar notes, even in a new context, shows a deeper understanding of the ingredient's heritage.
4. Innovation vs. Gimmickry: Is It Thoughtful?
Innovation is exciting, but not all experiments are successful. Ask yourself if the use of kokum feels thoughtful or forced. Is it there to add a unique dimension of flavour, or is it just a buzzword on the menu to attract attention? Thoughtful innovation might involve using kokum's acidity to cure fish in a ceviche or balancing the richness of chocolate in a dessert. Gimmickry, on the other hand, might be adding a drop of kokum syrup to a standard latte for colour and calling it a specialty coffee. True innovation enhances the experience and makes you appreciate the ingredient in a new light.
5. The Price Point: Are You Paying for Hype?
Kokum has always been a humble, accessible ingredient for those living in its native regions. While some cost increase is expected for sourcing and preparation in an urban cafe setting, the price should feel reasonable. If a simple kokum soda is priced at a significant premium compared to other craft beverages on the menu, it's worth questioning what you're paying for. Are you paying for a carefully crafted concentrate made in-house from high-quality dried fruit, or are you paying for the novelty of a trendy ingredient? A fair price reflects the quality and effort involved, not just the buzz.
